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Staff Favorites - Michele Gargani
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Reviews
2019 Mastroberardino "Stilema" Fiano di Avellino Riserva
Review Date: 11-03-2026
A masterclass in tension, pedigree, and chiseled volcanic architecture from Campania’s benchmark historic house. On the nose, it opens refreshingly vibrant and electric: crisp Granny Smith apple, honeydew melon, wild fennel pollen, and a subtle touch of green apple hard candy that stays laser-focused and dry.
On the palate, it delivers graceful, weightless precision, nothing is out of place. The mid-palate carries a medium-light frame, but don't let the initial lift fool you: beneath the surface lies a sneaky structural depth and a high-tensile, lip-smacking acid spine that grips the palate like a sour punch candy, drenched in mouthwatering salinity that practically demands the next sip.
At seven years of age, this wine is barely stretching its legs. With its seamless balance of low-profile extract, waxy citrus tension, and crystalline acidity, it evolves along an aging trajectory not unlike an old-school Hunter Valley Sémillon. Terrific energy and transparency right now, but its best drinking window is easily another 5 to 10 years down the line. A stellar bottle for collectors who prize nerve, minerality, and serious cellar longevity.
2022 Schiopetto M Collio Friulano
Review Date: 10-29-2026
If you want to understand the true soul of Collio Tocai Friulano, start here. Mario Schiopetto was the architect of modern Friulian winemaking, pioneering the clean, crystalline stainless-steel style decades before the trend of orange and skin-contact wines took hold. The 2022 “M” captures that pure pedigree without compromise. It opens with striking savory complexity; notes of fresh almond, raw coffee bean, wild bay leaf, thyme, and tangerine pulp. On the palate, it strikes an immaculate balance between textural weight and mouthwatering, salty sapidity. Phenomenal length and structure make this as age-worthy as it is food-friendly. Pair it with everything from rich risotto and prosciutto to poached halibut or pork Milanese.
