1999 Léoville-Barton, St-Julien

The 1999 Léoville Barton has a delightful bouquet that has held up much better than the 1999 Langoa Barton, brimming over with vivacious black fruit, wild strawberry and cedar; hints of tobacco emerge with time in the glass. This is classic Saint-Julien. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit laced with black olive, tar and pencil lead. Classic gentleman’s claret and drinking perfectly now, though it will give another 12 to 15 years of drinking pleasure. (NM)

A beautifully mature claret with melt-in-your-mouth tannins, 1999 Léoville-Barton is hitting its stride in the second half of its third decade. Aromas of cherry, forest floor, cedar, licorice and nutmeg bring one nance after another. The palate is lined with bright red fruits—crisp cherry, currant, and strawberry—while a softness and silkiness on the palate really defines the wine and gives it a St-Julien core. A resounding finish builds, with savory notes and slightly peppery notes at the end that beg for the perfect pairing. A beautiful tribute (among many) to Anthony Barton, and a wine that clearly argues that terroir and producer always win.