1937 Kopke Colheita Port

The 1937 Colheita Tawny Port comes in with 156 grams per liter of residual sugar. This is surprisingly fresh and surprisingly elegant for its age. It demonstrates its age when it finishes with power, showing remarkable grip and length, plus all those old Tawny flavors you want, the molasses, baked caramel. There's a touch of brandy lurking here and there. While this has far more power and complexity than the 1967 this issue, it does lack that wine's elegance and balance. The hard edge here is pretty hard, even if that intensity is sometimes very admirable. (I suspect it will show better if you come back in three days after opening it. They do change a little after pulling that cork, just a little, after that first rush.) At times, though, that hard edge makes it less attractive. The texture is smooth and unctuous. Overall, this is a fine experience in a blockbuster style. In some ways, I liked it no more than the 1967, though, perhaps less. To be sure, they are very differently styled as this, of course, emphasizes its power and that extra bit of complexity. Don't drink this too warm—that can make all the difference. (MS)