2022 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru

As in 2021, the 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru includes fruit from his holdings in Champonnet, as yields were reduced by hail. Bursting with aromas of cherries, berries, rose petals and vine smoke, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and supple, with a lively core of perfumed fruit and a mouthwateringly saline finish. This is another strong vintage for Domaine Denis Mortet, where Arnaud Mortet presides over an impressive palette of some of the Côte de Nuits's greatest appellations. Soils are cultivated mechanically, canopies are hedged high and late (at 1.50 meters, more or less the limit of an over-row tractor) and deleafing is thoughtful rather than systematic. In the winery, Mortet increasingly emphasizes manually processed grapes, with the rachis of each cluster cut out by hand, leaving berries on their pedicels intact. In the cellar, François Frères is ceding ground to Cavin—but without any concomitant shift in style in the direction of the overtly meretricious. The result? Wines that are supple and perfumed, with plenty of depth and flesh at the core, without any structural asperity. They can be drunk young—as no doubt they are drunk by many consumers today—but will age with grace too. In short, Mortet is at the top of his game today and settled into his contemporary style, and everything reviewed here comes recommended.(WK)