2020 Pavillon Rouge du Margaux, Margaux

Liquorice and aniseed tinged blackcurrants on the nose, very medicinal, deep, heady, perfumed too but softly scented, more savoury and spiced. Smooth and supple, fully tannic - they coat the mouth but seamlessly still leaving the vibrant, lively, forward and upfront fruit to shine. So much energy, crisp and crunchy dark fruit - blackcurrant, black cherry, raspberry and plum. A sense of heat enters on the finish with liquorice and clove coming through reminding you this is a serious wine with plenty of ageing potential. Excellent length and sense of classicism - a totally moreish Pavillon. 2% Cabernet Franc completes the blend. (GH)

Vibrant plum colour with violet edging, glass staining and gorgeous. A serious Pavillon Rouge, as is typical of the vintage, with fleshy raspberry and bilberry fruits, espresso and cocoa bean, precise and clean-cut, taking serious aim at the tannic frame. This is even more concentrated than 2016 in terms of the analysis, and the intensity of the fruit character suggests long ageing ahead of it. The estate saw 80mm of rain on August 13 but apart from that there was almost no rain for six weeks. 36hl/h yield (compared to 55hl/h in 2016, explaining the extra concentration here), 55% new oak for ageing.