2019 Léoville-Poyferré, St-Julien

Of the three Léovilles this one has the lowest percentage of Cabernet, with 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc, partnered by 27% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot. The élevage made use of 80% new barrels, and 20% second-fill. Aromatically it is dark and focused, smoky and concentrated, yet there is evidently a fresh perfume here too, with scents of blackcurrant, damson, crushed chalk and lavender. It feels evocative and expressive, modern and yet fresh. This is followed by brilliant poise on the palate, bright, with a richly polished substance, evocative and ripe, with substantial tannins. A real grand vin here, with super poise and imposing substance, an intense powerhouse of a wine. This should evolve brilliantly.

This is one of my secret weapons in collectible Bordeaux—a world-class experience at an all-too-reasonable price. I firmly believe it captures the brilliance of Left Bank Cabernet that defines the 2019 vintage, while benefiting from the attractive pricing that makes 2019 one of the best buying opportunities in Bordeaux. Though still primary at this stage, it’s accessible, dynamic, and immediately delicious. Perfectly balanced, with deep cassis, fine minerality, and incredible texture, this is a wine of real substance and depth. From the aromas to the mid-palate to the long finish, it moves seamlessly from one nuance to the next. I can’t wait to see how it ages, but even now, it has so much to offer. I can easily imagine it going toe-to-toe with the estate’s benchmark releases from 2009 and 2010—but for the moment, it remains one of their best-kept secrets. Don’t miss it.