1953 Lafite-Rothschild, Pauillac

It is funny how each of our paths in the world of wine unfold, for though I have been extremely fortunate to drink a lot of great, great Bordeaux over the years, this particular tasting in 2017 was the very first time I had ever crossed paths with the legendary 1953 vintage of Lafite-Rothschild. I had probably drunk the equally magical 1959 Lafite close to a dozen times, but never the 1953! Given the inherent elegance of the 1953 vintage, it is not surprising that the synthesis of this year and Lafite is a match made in heaven. The bouquet is celestial, wafting from the glass in a brilliantly complex blend of cassis, black truffles, a touch of spiced meats, Cuban cigar, dark soil tones and a hint of mint in the upper register. Interestingly, as this wine sits in the glass, more red fruity tones come to the fore and one gets a lovely blast of summer truffles (which would be a perfect match with the wine). On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and the epitome of refinement, with a seamless palate impression, a lovely core of fruit, impeccable balance and a long, elegant and very, very complex finish. This is a wine that deserves every bit of the mountains of praised that have been heaped on it over the years.

Mid to light ruby with a hint of brown. Light but certainly refined on the nose with strong lead pencils. Even rather Cabernet Franc-like in its aromatic nature. Sweet start then rather firm and even slightly metallic on the palate. Great energy there. Flattering and ethereal. I could imagine some people finding it too light. Super refreshing. Difficult to imagine this sort of wine being made today. More transparent. Then it opens out in the glass and seems to gain depth. Only very, very slightly dry finish. But it blossoms beautifully in the glass. Putty, fragrance, sweet juiciness. So fluid. Freshness. Ethereal and the nose grew and grew – such fabulous lift... The most elegant wine by far here. 20/20 points (JR)