2008 Château Rayas "Réserve" Châteauneuf-du-Pape

A much lighter style of wine, but showing far better now that it has had some time in bottle, is Emmanuel Reynaud’s 2008 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape. Medium ruby, with a classic nose of kirsch liqueur intermixed with Provencal herbs, sandy, loamy soil notes, some licorice and steak tartare, this wine is fleshy, medium to full-bodied, round, generous, and surprisingly seductive and luscious. I wouldn’t be surprised if many tasters prefer this over the bigger, richer, more structured and potentially far greater 2007, at least for the next 4-5 years. This is a sensational effort and one of the finest wines of the vintage, the most challenging year in Chateauneuf du Pape since the historical deluge in 2002. (RP)