2005 Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol

The 2005 vintage seems likely to be viewed by posterity as the last truly great vintage in Bordeaux that was hyped as such by the Bordelais. Given how shamelessly they had lied about the 2003 vintage only two years before, it is understandable that many in the market took their pronouncements about the magic of the 2005 vintage with more than a grain of salt, but the vintage truly is magnificent and aging exceptionally well. However, like its counterpart in Burgundy, 2005 is a very structured vintage, due to its very rare combination of great ripeness of fruit and high acids, so it is still a young vintage and in need of plenty more cellaring. The 2005 Vieux Château Certan came in at 13.5 percent octane and today, offers up a superb and very precise bouquet of red and black cherries, tobacco leaf, gravelly soil tones, a nice dollop of Pomerol herb tones, cigar ash and toasty new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, seamlessly balanced and rock solid at the core, with lovely soil inflection, ripe, buried tannins, tangy acids and great focus on the long, complex and vibrant finish. A great, great wine in the making. 95+

A stunning effort from Alexander Thienpont, the 2005 Vieux Chateau Certan (a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc) reveals an inky/blue/purple color along with a rich, sumptuous perfume of black olives, lavender, roasted herbs, licorice, pain grille, and oodles of truffles as well as creme de cassis. In the mouth, hints of chocolate and charcoal also make an appearance along with good acidity, fabulous purity, and a full-bodied, powerful mouthfeel. In keeping with the style of this terroir, the wine is reserved and restrained, but deep. It should develop magnificently. (RP)