2009 d'Yquem, Sauternes

The 2009 is clearly a return to the majestic brilliance of Yquem and the most magical young vintage of this wine that I can ever recall tasting. Its beauty in ’09 lies in its haunting elegance and refined complexity at such an early age, which seems to me to be the barometer by which Yquem should be judged, as power is never an issue with this great terroir. The bouquet is absolutely fabulous, as it soars from the glass in an almost delicate mélange of fresh-cut pineapple, tangerine, an exotic touch of banana, acacia blossoms, a gloriously complex base of chalky soil, orange zest, delicate notes of honeycomb, a bit of pink grapefruit and an esthery topnote of bee pollen. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, very pure and remarkably light on its feet, with perfect focus and balance, superb acids and simply stunning length and grip. I hope the wine does not pick up too much oak from its stay in barrel, as while there will be no issue with the depth of this wine supporting its oak, to risk losing some of this kaleidoscopic complexity to wood tones would be near tragic. A magical Yquem and probably the finest wine made in Bordeaux in 2009.

The aromas are so rich and powerful, with great ripe apricots. There are honey, spice and beautiful sweet spiced pears. This is an extraordinary wine in an extraordinary year in Sauternes. (RV)