2005 Lagrange, St-Julien

Balanced, classic, fine tannins, stretched out through the palate, delicate and finessed. Not as powerful as some 2005s right now but one to recommend for opening and drinking. Rose petals, blond tobacco, freshly cured leather, wild strawberries, gentle hedgerow and earthy acidity. A lovely surprise, a lesson in understated, unfussy, elegant claret. More evolved than some, but this is where I feel good 2005s will end - a delightful fine, easy to drink and utterly moreish glass of wine. 60% new oak, 43% 1st wine. Eric Boissenot consultant.

The Château Lagrange 2005 has an intense bouquet with cedar and graphite infusing the black fruit, nicely controlled and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, well-judged acidity and a slightly reserved but delineated finish: dried herbs, cedar and a dash of white pepper sprinkled over the black fruit. This excellent Lagrange has to be one of the most consistently satisfying wines from the appellation. Another year, another satisfying Lagrange. (NM)