Staff Favorites - Ryan Moses

Ryan Moses

Reviews

Page: 1 2 3 next
2016 Pontet-Canet, Pauillac
Review Date: 08-13-2026
For me, this is right up there with the 2009 and 2010 as one of the finest releases of the modern era at Pontet-Canet. It has that undeniable character the estate does so well, somehow deeply Pauillac and luxurious at the same time, never fussy and always delicious. What stands out in 2016 is the added level of precision and refinement it brings to the richness and sheer appeal that made the 2009 and 2010 so famously adored. That’s no easy feat, and it gives this wine a sense of completeness that puts it among the very best Pontet-Canets of the past two decades. The nose is deep and dark, with black cherry, graphite, plum, and tar, immediately speaking to both the power of the vintage and the character of the appellation. The palate, however, is fresh, focused, and lively, with blackberry, cassis, hints of baking chocolate, and a fine, polished texture that keeps the wine from ever feeling heavy. There’s impressive concentration here, but also real lift and energy, with beautifully integrated tannins and a long, persistent finish that just carries on and on. This is a blockbuster, no question, but one with tremendous poise, balance, and detail. What I love most is how naturally all of those elements come together. It has the scale and depth you expect from a great Pontet-Canet, but also a sense of control and harmony that makes it compelling even at this relatively young stage. There’s plenty of structure for the long haul, but the fruit and texture are already expressive enough to make it enormously enjoyable today with some air. This is one of my favorite Pontet-Canet releases in a long time and still represents remarkable collectible value among the Left Bank’s finest wines from this unforgettable vintage. It has the pedigree to age for decades, but just as importantly, it already has that unmistakable Pontet-Canet quality that makes you want to keep coming back to the glass.

2009 Lynch-Bages, Pauillac
Review Date: 08-13-2026
I remember first tasting this wine with the late, great Jean-Michel Cazes, whose generosity and character filled the room wherever he went. He was an icon in the Bordeaux community and one of the region’s great ambassadors, and I can’t help but think of him whenever I taste this wine. His 2009 Lynch-Bages was simply stunning on that occasion, and it has continued to get better and better with each passing year. What’s so impressive about this wine is that, while it carries a touch of the richness of the 2009 vintage, it’s the Pauillac side of the wine that takes center stage. There are decadent Cabernet flavors, striking structure that has integrated beautifully into the wine, and a combination of concentration and acidity that keeps it youthful and lively. As Jean-Michel said at that tasting, “great wines are never tiring, they are thirst-quenching and invite another sip.” Such is the case with the 2009 today, and seeing how it is evolving, I expect it to remain just as dynamic, if not even more so, over the next few decades. I hope every Bordeaux cellar has a strong complement of Lynch-Bages, and for me, the 2009 is not to be missed.

2022 Branaire-Ducru, St-Julien
Review Date: 08-13-2026
2022 Branaire-Ducru is one of my favorite wines from the entire Left Bank in the 2022 vintage, no faint praise when considering the caliber of the vintage in question. At its heart, this is an incredible buy in collectible Bordeaux: it has the composure and caliber to stand up to peers at multiples of the price, yet is refreshingly and undeniably delicious at a price where it’s all too easy to pull corks. It’s also a great credit to François-Xavier Maroteaux and his team, who have clearly mastered the estate’s state-of-the-art winemaking facility without losing the thread of what has made Branaire distinctive across generations. For all the polish and precision of a top-tier vintage, it remains deeply of its place and quintessentially Branaire. Full of bright red fruits throughout, there’s a viscosity to the palate that speaks to a concentrated wine, but it still comes off bright and airy, with remarkably fine tannins and a long finish that brings out a slight minerality at the end. It is so composed, and somehow retains a classic St-Julien profile. The refinement and detail are just next level. I’ve considered this a special wine since tasting it En Primeur, and it’s done nothing but confirm its status among St-Julien’s elite since then. I’m thrilled to have this in my cellar, and I think anybody with a deep stash of 2022 Branaire-Ducru will be drinking like royalty for years to come.

2022 Croix de Labrie, St-Emilion
Review Date: 08-11-2026
Axelle and Pierre Courdurié are crafting some of the finest wines in Bordeaux at Croix de Labrie, a fact made unmistakable when tasting their absolutely stunning 2022 vintage. Sourced from hillside parcels between Troplong Mondot and Larcis Ducasse, this tiny, cult‑caliber estate feels almost Burgundian in scale and humility, yet the wine is unmistakably Bordeaux in character. I love how this wine delivers endless depth of flavor while maintaining extraordinary elegance. The texture is perfect, the tannins seamless, the acids bright, and a beautiful mineral thread runs throughout. It’s so thoughtfully composed and endlessly delicious. I’ve had the pleasure of tasting it with the team on multiple occasions, and it has been one of the most impressive wines in every setting. If you want a first-hand experience with one of the region’s ascendant properties—or to add a true under‑the‑radar gem with immense potential to your collection—this is it. The 2022 Croix de Labrie is a masterpiece, and one I cannot recommend highly enough. They produce only a few hundred cases per year, so our property‑direct allocation represents a meaningful share of what exists for the world. It’s a get‑it‑while‑you‑can wine, made even more compelling by the soaring success of the benchmark 2022 vintage.

2022 Croix de Labrie, St-Emilion
Review Date: 08-07-2026
Axelle and Pierre Courdurié are crafting some of the finest wines in Bordeaux at Croix de Labrie, a fact made unmistakable when tasting their absolutely stunning 2022 vintage. Sourced from hillside parcels between Troplong Mondot and Larcis Ducasse, this tiny, cult‑caliber estate feels almost Burgundian in scale and humility, yet the wine is unmistakably Bordeaux in character. I love how this wine delivers endless depth of flavor while maintaining extraordinary elegance. The texture is perfect, the tannins seamless, the acids bright, and a beautiful mineral thread runs throughout. It’s so thoughtfully composed and endlessly delicious. I’ve had the pleasure of tasting it with the team on multiple occasions, and it has been one of the most impressive wines in every setting. If you want a first-hand experience with one of the region’s ascendant properties—or to add a true under‑the‑radar gem with immense potential to your collection—this is it. The 2022 Croix de Labrie is a masterpiece, and one I cannot recommend highly enough. They produce only a few hundred cases per year, so our property‑direct allocation represents a meaningful share of what exists for the world. It’s a get‑it‑while‑you‑can wine, made even more compelling by the soaring success of the benchmark 2022 vintage.

2019 d'Issan, Margaux
Review Date: 08-05-2026
D’Issan has long been one of the great values in Margaux, and the 2019 clearly drives that point home. The heart of the wine comes from its holdings on the Margaux plateau, stretching north toward Palmer and Château Margaux—an ideal position for expressing the appellation’s signature character. To me, it borrows some of the power you find on the Palmer side of Margaux, but in recent vintages like 2019, there’s also a brightness and elegance that give it a strong sense of place. It’s a terrific Cabernet vintage, and d’Issan makes the most of it with a blend led by 70% Cabernet Sauvignon. Our new Bordeaux-direct parcel is coming to you at one of the best prices available—a level that will look like a towering value once the wine reaches its full potential in a few years. Until then, feel free to keep it our secret.

2020 Bélair-Monange, St-Émilion
Review Date: 07-31-2026
Coming from one of the most extraordinary terroirs in all of Bordeaux—right in the heart of the St‑Émilion plateau—it’s no surprise that Belair‑Monange (formerly Magdelaine) produces one of the region’s top wines. Add the unparalleled expertise of the Mouiex family and it reaches another level entirely. But that’s only the starting point, because the 2020 vintage takes all of these elements and moves from compelling to truly epic. This is a not‑to‑be‑missed wine of the highest caliber, one that can stand alongside anything on the Right Bank from one of its greatest vintages. Just recently, Jeb Dunnuck awarded the 2020 Belair‑Monange a perfect score in a 20‑vintage vertical, calling it “a legendary Saint‑Émilion” and noting that it reminds him “of a great vintage of Petrus”—and considering the Mouiex lineage at that estate, it’s not far‑fetched. Experiencing that kind of pedigree at this price is remarkable on its own, but when you add near‑perfect reviews from other top critics, including Jane Anson and Georgie Hindle of Decanter, it’s clear this is no flash in the pan. It’s a legitimate superstar and a cult collectible of the highest order. I’ve always adored Belair‑Monange, consistently a standout among Mouiex’s great wines every year. But the strides they’ve made over the past decade are astounding, and given their singular vineyard, masterful touch, and soaring quality, it won’t be long before everyone is in on the secret. For now, the fact that it’s this good and still relatively under the radar makes it a remarkable opportunity for collectors to experience one of fine wine’s true hidden gems.

2023 Coutet, Sauternes (375ml)
Review Date: 07-29-2026
2023 is quietly shaping up to be one of the great modern vintages in Sauternes—a true classic that marries brightness and richness in a way that makes these wines both immediately approachable and deeply ageworthy. One of the region’s standout successes is Coutet in Barsac, a property run by the Mouton team and fully deserving of First Growth stature in 2023. Beautifully expressive on the nose, it opens with orange blossom, honey, and lime pith. The palate follows through with superb balance among sweetness, acidity, and botrytis spice, delivering a vibrant mix of stone fruit, grilled pineapple, and Meyer lemon. There’s ample sweetness and structure to carry this for decades, yet I love how irresistibly delicious and open it is right now. Add in best‑in‑class press, and you have one of the most rewarding buys in the region—especially in the wonderfully convenient 375ml format.

2020 Lynch-Bages, Pauillac
Review Date: 07-24-2026
This is the first Lynch Bages made at the new winemaking facility, and they've rung in the new era in style. Another 2020 that looks like a long distance runner, especially compared to the more elegant and bright 2019, it feels like an echo of their 2010—sure, it'll need time, but those who get in early will be thrilled with what they have in their cellar for the years to come. Dark cassis, graphite, tobacco, and black cherry line the palate that retains a level of freshness, but the depth is just stunning. Long, energetic, and dynamic, it is in the style that makes it so apparent why folks adore Lynch Bages, while still keeping its feet planted firmly in Pauillac. I can't wait to see how this develops, but for now, it is a sleeping giant and one of the best buys you'll find from this estate.

2023 Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol
Review Date: 07-23-2026
Every once in a while, I get the chance to taste in the humble cellars of Vieux Chateau Certan, where Alexandre Thienpont lets the wines speak for themselves, and they not only speak with volume, but also great harmony. The 2023 is such a wine, one that just puts a smile on your face. Thienpont called this vintage "back to Bordeaux," capturing the classic notes of a fine VCC. The most vibrant wine aromatically of perhaps the whole vintage, it had wild aromas of bright fruit, florals, and a deep clay minerality. On the palate it is layered, with perfect fruit, balanced and seamless texture, and refreshing acidity. The finish is long, and each smell/sip brings another nuance. It's a wine you want to spend time with. 2023 Vieux Chateau Certan is a brilliant Pomerol and a success by any measure.

2019 Troplong Mondot, St-Émilion
Review Date: 07-23-2026
For me, Troplong Mondot’s renaissance is perfectly captured by this incredible 2019—a wine that champions brightness and freshness in a way that needs to be tasted to be believed. Just a decade ago, Troplong Mondot was also producing 100‑point wines, but they were built on power and extraction. The graceful, ethereal, and lifted wines now emerging from this estate show that the terroir is undeniable, but perhaps it simply needed a gentler touch to shine. The nose is bright, crisp, and floral, while the palate delivers a mélange of thirst‑quenching fruit, fine texture, driving acidity, and freshness throughout. The long finish keeps revealing nuance after nuance, and the depth of flavor never tips into weight. A thread of limestone minerality carries through from start to finish. It’s no surprise this has earned a litany of near‑perfect scores from nearly every major critic—something you don’t often see at this price point. Congratulations to Aymeric de Gironde for the revolutionary turnaround at one of Bordeaux’s great estates, and for a foundational 2019 that should not be missed.

2023 Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol
Review Date: 07-23-2026
Every once in a while, I get the chance to taste in the humble cellars of Vieux Chateau Certan, where Alexandre Thienpont lets the wines speak for themselves, and they not only speak with volume, but also great harmony. The 2023 is such a wine, one that just puts a smile on your face. Thienpont called this vintage "back to Bordeaux," capturing the classic notes of a fine VCC. The most vibrant wine aromatically of perhaps the whole vintage, it had wild aromas of bright fruit, florals, and a deep clay minerality. On the palate it is layered, with perfect fruit, balanced and seamless texture, and refreshing acidity. The finish is long, and each smell/sip brings another nuance. It's a wine you want to spend time with. 2023 Vieux Chateau Certan is a brilliant Pomerol and a success by any measure.

2020 Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac
Review Date: 07-23-2026
Pichon-Lalande is crafting wines today that stand among their finest releases, and the 2020 is a resounding example. What makes these modern vintages so irresistible is how clearly they express their terroir—regardless of the era, this is Pichon-Lalande at its core. Yet the added refinement and polish bring a decadence reminiscent of its First Growth neighbor. Hints of graphite, deep cherry, and that signature, subtle herbal note lead the way, but the weightless concentration is the star—somehow poised and elegant while still rich in flavor. Precise texture, vibrant acidity, and refined tannins carry a long, persistent finish. The 2020 offers a level of density that makes it slightly less immediate than the 2019 or 2022, but that depth will pay dividends with time. Either way, it’s an unmistakable success and one of the standouts of the great 2020 vintage.

2009 Lilian Ladouys, St-Estèphe
Review Date: 07-11-2026
One of the standout values of the 2009 Bordeaux vintage, I didn’t expect to see any more of this vintage of Lilian Ladouys in meaningful quantity ever again. That’s why I snapped this up the moment I found it earlier this year. For many, 2009 was a benchmark for the estate—an intersection of a brilliant Northern Médoc vintage and an estate hitting its stride, resulting in a scintillating, delicious, and undeniable wine. I wasn’t patient enough to let the case I bought En Primeur last through the following decade, but every bottle showed tremendous potential, and it’s a joy to revisit it at this stage. The aromatics are bountiful, with deep cassis, blackberry, graphite, and thyme. The palate is pure and expressive, built around a core of red cherry, terrific texture, and well‑judged tannins. Beautifully evolved yet still packed with fruit, it’s a charming wine that will cruise through the next ten years, but is as irresistible now as it has ever been. I don’t know if these are the last bottles around, but I’ll cherish them as if they are—and I’m thrilled to share this brilliant St‑Estèphe at fifteen years on.

2022 Larcis Ducasse, St-Emilion
Review Date: 07-08-2026
There’s something special about this 11‑hectare property in the heart of St‑Emilion. Its proximity to Pavie may once have been its claim to fame, but these days the truth might run the other way. Over the past two decades, David Suire has worked real magic here, and the 2022 is arguably his finest achievement. Jeb Dunnuck certainly agrees, awarding it a 100‑point score and naming it Wine of the Year. For me, it’s the combination of remarkable terroir—pure limestone that echoes the greatest sites of the Right Bank—paired with incredible depth of fruit delivered without weight, and a price that feels almost too rewarding. As one of the true stars of the benchmark 2022 vintage in Bordeaux, this level of acclaim would justify a much higher tariff, which is just one more reason Larcis Ducasse holds such a cherished place among collectors.

2022 Clos Puy Arnaud, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
Review Date: 07-07-2026
I’ve been excited to share this gem from one of Bordeaux’s up‑and‑coming producers, a domaine that’s making undeniably great wines these days—especially in the amplified 2022 vintage. Run by Thierry Valette, who previously worked at both Pavie and Troplong Mondot, Clos Puy Arnaud’s 2022 is the result of years spent building a world‑class operation in the Côtes de Castillon. Focused on the more finessed, precise style now defining the Right Bank, and shaped by the limestone character of the appellation’s best sites, this is a genuine, age‑worthy, and deeply characterful wine. Once again, the 2022 vintage shows its quality, delivering an impressive balance of accessibility, structure, and irresistible charm. It’s no surprise Jane Anson named it her top value buy of last year, especially given its modest retail price. This is one to load up on and enjoy anytime over the next decade or two—just don’t miss it while it’s available, as it stands tall among the best buys in Bordeaux.

2015 Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol
Review Date: 06-17-2026
This is a quietly great vintage on the Right Bank, one we’ve been fans of since release. The very top wines of the year—especially in Pomerol—produced some all‑timers, bottles with remarkable density, structure, and depth. Right at the peak of that class sits the 2015 Vieux Château Certan. The 100‑point scores are really just the appetizer; what’s in the bottle is the true reminder of why collectors have such deep affection for this limited‑production Pomerol estate. After about an hour in the decanter, all the brilliance of VCC comes forward: dense fruit without heaviness, a harmony of richness and precision, and a long, incredibly fine finish. We’ve tasted it a few times over the years, but this recent look—now a decade on—shows that the early promise is coming through in a big way. It should age effortlessly for another 30 years, yet there’s already so much to enjoy with a bit of air. A genuine and wonderful Pomerol that will rival the greats of the region, which is no easy feat.

2020 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac
Review Date: 06-15-2026
Grand‑Puy‑Lacoste is Pauillac to its core, carrying the grace of classic Bordeaux with a profile that could come from nowhere else. The 2020 is one of the château’s most impressive recent releases, a wine that has firmly elevated GPL into the region’s top tier while the pricing remains remarkably reasonable. Neal Martin’s 97‑point Southwold score put it shoulder‑to‑shoulder with the appellation’s elite, and his comparisons to the all‑time 2016 (now well over $100) only reinforce that this is a new benchmark at the estate. Layered with Cabernet‑driven graphite, cassis, vibrant acidity, and a seamless, finessed texture, it delivers depth without weight and polish without excess. As a collectible Bordeaux, it’s a brilliant buy, and today’s Bordeaux‑direct pricing pushes it into no‑brainer territory. For a quintessential, ageworthy Pauillac at a compelling price, this is the one.

2022 Lamothe-Bergeron, Haut-Médoc
Review Date: 06-11-2026
One of our favorite under-the-radar value producers, Lamothe-Bergeron, elevated their game even further in 2022. Located between St-Julien and Margaux, Lamothe-Bergeron delivers exactly the kind of Cabernet-led, Left Bank value that savvy Bordeaux buyers love: undeniably delicious yet complex, with classic Médoc character. The 2022 vintage provides remarkable accessibility without sacrificing depth, as layers of deep red and black fruit cover the palate, accented by notes of tobacco and lifted by enough acidity to carry the fruit through a long finish. Polished, refreshing, and already highly enjoyable, this is a bottle that should age well, though I imagine it will be hard to resist pulling corks now. A top value selection and another winner from both the 2022 vintage and Lamothe-Bergeron.

2025 Montrose, St-Estèphe
Review Date: 06-10-2026
Another monumental wine from Montrose—par for the course these days, but no less thrilling because of it. Aromatically, the 2025 is dense and compact, with notes of blackberry and graphite. On the palate, it’s concentrated yet incredibly layered and deep, the kind of wine that seems to reveal another level with every sip. Deep black fruits and tobacco brighten into a lively, fruit-filled midpalate, carried by a seamless texture and super‑fine tannins. It already feels complete, and it was one we kept talking about as the day—and the week—went on. A classically styled Montrose that shows one of the region’s great estates operating at the top of their game. A surefire winner in 2025.

2025 Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol
Review Date: 06-10-2026
One of my favorite moments of the year is tasting Vieux Château Certan En Primeur, and this year was no different. The Thienpont family—this time with Guillaume leading the way—always lets the wine speak for itself. And the 2025 speaks volumes. Fragrant, perfumed red‑to‑black fruits lead the way, lightly oak‑kissed in all the right ways. Any initial sense of opulence quickly gives way to precision and focus on the palate: powerful yet silky, driven by fruit and mineral, with black fruit, baking spice, and a lifting acid backbone. Fine, long tannins frame an intense but beautifully balanced wine. The finish is long and layered, carrying the clay soils with it alongside mouthwatering fruit. It’s a wine you simply want to spend time with, and once again it brought a smile to all of our faces—placing Vieux Château Certan firmly among the finest in Pomerol.

2025 Margaux, Margaux
Review Date: 06-10-2026
The 2025 Margaux has the potential to be a singular wine on many fronts. With production down 40%, it will be rarer than recent vintages, but it’s really the decisions in the vineyard that define it. Among the last to pick, the team at Château Margaux held steady through one difficult call after another, and the result makes clear that their risks paid off. Highly floral, red‑fruit‑driven aromatics lead into a silky palate that carries more intensity than is typical for this address. Everything feels precisely placed: delicate spice, deep red fruits, an endless finish, and very fine tannins. It is, however, a powerful Margaux—one that will almost certainly reward time, even if it won’t strictly require it. I’ve tasted prettier, more overtly elegant versions of Margaux in the past, but if this comes together in bottle, it will deliver all of that and more. I hope to have the chance to revisit it in the years ahead.

2025 Lafleur Vin de France
Review Date: 06-09-2026
Lafleur’s 2025 is the first release since leaving the appellation, a move made to ensure they can craft the best possible expression of their treasured Pomerol terroir. The Grand Vin is a remarkable wine in 2025—every bit as inspiring as it has ever been—and the only thing not‑Pomerol about it is the name. Aromatically it leaps from the glass with a beautiful perfume, flowers, and blackberries. On the palate, the incredibly seamless texture is hard to get over, yet it’s supported by deep red and black fruit, a distinct minerality, and a touch of spice on the finish. Dense but never heavy, as long as anything in the vintage, it’s a wine you simply want to spend time with as it reveals one nuance after another without ever becoming tiring. I think Lafleur continues to reach new heights these days, and 2025 will be a signature vintage for reasons that go well beyond classification. This is a remarkable wine that will be an absolute treasure in the years to come.

2025 Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan
Review Date: 06-08-2026
I feel like the 2025 Haut-Brion could be from nowhere else. My notes call it “very Haut-Brion,” which, beyond being a bit redundant, speaks to the character of this wine when it’s really great—almost excessively stern, but incredibly nuanced, endlessly elegant, and a wine that just keeps delivering something new with every smell and taste. The quality of the Merlot is evident in the more berry-focused aromatics, and at first the wine tastes a bit reserved. But then it keeps building, with minerality, dark red and black fruits, and spice. Very long, very concentrated, and yes, very Haut-Brion. Unlike many top 2025s, I expect this will demand a bit of time in the cellar, but it’s certainly a brilliant wine and one that had me thinking about it long after I left our tasting.

2025 Pichon-Baron, Pauillac
Review Date: 06-08-2026
I’ve really appreciated the direction of Pichon Baron in recent years—full of character and place, but also a bit brighter and more focused in all the right ways. The 2025 carries on that tradition, with a Cabernet-forward rendition (84%) that delivers the characteristic concentration, lifted by a bright midpalate driven by cedar, plum, and black cherry. It is wonderfully textured and well-integrated at this young stage. It’s amazing how they pack all that flavor into a wine that’s also balanced by acidity and low alcohol (13.3%). Another winner from the team at Pichon Baron.

2025 Beau-Séjour Bécot, St-Emilion
Review Date: 06-08-2026
Beau-Séjour Bécot is an elite wine at an incredibly reasonable price in 2025. I was absolutely spellbound by their 2022, and this echoes that style of an elevated and electric wine. A brilliant intensity surrounds the 2025 Beau-Séjour Bécot, with high-toned, vibrant acidity supported by waves of bright black fruit and a lingering limestone saline note that begs for another sip. It is a remarkably complex, thought-provoking wine that I can’t wait to follow over the years. The work being done at this address is astounding, and while the word has already gotten out, considering the multiple potentially perfect scores, it still somehow flies under the radar. This might be the last vintage it does so, and for that reason, I can’t recommend it enough as a high-upside buy. Either way, congrats to Julien Barthe and Juliette Bécot on a superb 2025.

2025 Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan
Review Date: 06-02-2026
The 2025 at Haut‑Bailly reminds me a bit of their remarkably good 2023—which itself echoed the 2016. More simply put, this is clearly among the finest wines at this address, and very possibly among the best of the 2025 vintage. A core of red fruit drives the wine from the aromas through the palate, and while consistently refreshing, it remains complex, serious, and sneakily long. The concentration and balance are genuinely impressive. Layers of flavor unfold on the finish, making it a wine that rewards attention without ever demanding it. It’s remarkable to see the strides Haut‑Bailly has made in recent years, especially given the heights they had already achieved. Congratulations to Véronique Sanders and her team on a brilliant 2025.

2025 Brane-Cantenac, Margaux
Review Date: 06-02-2026
Brane‑Cantenac is building on an incredible run with this 2025, a stunning wine that once again marries true Margaux typicité with extraordinary elegance and depth. From the start, it’s aromatically Margaux to its core, offering lifted black fruits and violets. The palate delivers the château’s signature elegance—precise, pure, and effortlessly refined. The fruit profile wavers beautifully between red and black, the texture is seamless, and the tannins are remarkably well‑integrated. The core of this is 80% Cabernet. This is a superb expression of place, property, and vintage—and one of fine wine’s great collectible values. It’s absolutely a release I’d urge people not to miss.

2025 Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac
Review Date: 06-02-2026
2025 is one of my favorite Mouton vintages I’ve tasted En Primeur. The estate’s signature luxurious character is here in spades, yet the wine is remarkably accessible for such a young Mouton. A brilliant ruby hue leads into floral notes and red bing cherry aromatics, but it’s on the palate where the wine truly takes hold. Bright acidity lifts a mélange of red fruits and cedar, finishing with mouthcoating texture and beautifully integrated tannins that bring everything into balance. Long, persistent, and impeccably composed—powerful but never heavy, endlessly layered. Mouton always brings joy to the world of fine wine, but this one doubles down on that, and I can’t wait to taste it again. It’s pure Cabernet goodness, made even more compelling by its near‑record 98% Cabernet in the blend. It’s also a lesson in oak élevage: despite 100% new oak, nothing sticks out, and the modest 13.1% alcohol carries the wine with grace.

2025 Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac
Review Date: 06-01-2026
My notes lead with “most impressive aromatics of the vintage,” and then continue that “most impressive” theme through to the very long finish. It is a wine you just want to spend time with: a brilliant array of deep black‑to‑red fruits, a slight herbal note, and one nuance after another tucked into every corner. Dense without being heavy, regal without being overbearing, and flawlessly textured, the 2025 Pichon Comtesse delivers a pure expression of the estate’s character. One of my favorites from Pauillac and from the 2025 vintage overall, it’s awesome to see one of our favorite properties operating at such a high level.

2025 Giscours, Margaux
Review Date: 06-01-2026
Either Giscours is on a historic qualitative run, or they’ve always been this good and the world is finally catching on. It’s probably a bit of both, but either way, one of Bordeaux’s great estates is in top form in 2025. Aromatically, it’s one of the most expressive wines of the vintage, built on nuance rather than power—very much in the spirit of great Margaux—yet the depth of the year comes through clearly. The palate is very pretty, moving from bright blue to black fruits, with fine‑grained, well‑integrated tannins and a long, layered finish. This is a wine that will age beautifully without being demanding. I can’t wait to see how it rounds out in bottle, but as it stands, it’s a terrific buy in ageworthy, collectible Bordeaux.

2025 Palmer, Margaux
Review Date: 05-26-2026
Palmer crafted a masterful wine in 2025, one that delivers complexity, depth, and nuance. Aromatically, it hints at something almost intimidating, yet the palate is generous and suave. It has incredible density, but somehow isn’t heavy or overbearing—a difficult feat to pull off. Hints of violet and stone‑tinged aromas lead to a mouthcoating palate full of black plum and cassis, framed by incredibly fine tannins and a big, acid‑driven, fruit‑filled finish. Long, refined, and lined with a mineral‑driven texture. It’s a wine that brings a smile to your face—what more could you ask for. This is certainly a Palmer that delivers the kind of joy people keep coming back for at this address. A wonderful 2025.

2025 Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan
Review Date: 05-26-2026
Malartic‑Lagravière is one of the most compelling wines in Pessac in 2025, bringing a combination of southern Médoc character with remarkable refinement and poise. Aromas of deep cassis and blackberries lead to a pure, focused, and complex palate that never feels heavy, but instead carries its black‑fruited core with ease, finishing on a subtly mineral‑tinged note. It is unmistakably Pessac, yet the way it delivers that signature character with such finesse and quiet confidence is an impressive feat. It’s a ton of wine for the price, as is usually the case with Malartic‑Lagravière, but I think that’s even more true with this 2025, which feels especially complete and rewarding. Great work here from the Bonnie family, who continue to elevate this estate in all the right ways.

2025 Branaire-Ducru, St-Julien
Review Date: 05-26-2026
One of the most refreshing visits every year is with François‑Xavier Maroteaux of Branaire‑Ducru, an estate whose wines seem to get better with each vintage. The 2025 is another gem, with beautifully expressive aromas leading into a textured, fresh palate full of fine red fruits and supported by seamlessly integrated tannins. Remarkably harmonious already, the balance is impeccable. When Branaire‑Ducru is firing at this level, it’s the complete package—beautifully St‑Julien, incredibly refined, deeply flavorful, and complex. Combine this quality and proven pedigree with genuinely rewarding release pricing, and the 2025 Branaire‑Ducru becomes a wine I cannot recommend highly enough.

2025 La Gaffelière, St-Émilion
Review Date: 05-22-2026
In 2025, the contrast between the St‑Emilion limestone plateau and the surrounding areas was unmistakable. The best terroirs had both relief from the extreme heat and the ability to handle the late‑season rain thanks to their exposure and soils. La Gaffelière is exactly that kind of site, and it’s easy to see why it stands out as one of the highlights of the vintage. This was a wine I had a hard time putting down—remarkably seamless and elegant, with effortless concentration. Aromatically complex, with bright florals and Cab Franc lift, the palate follows through with pure deep red fruits, fine minerality, and a long, driven, layered profile that stays refreshing at every turn. I can’t wait to taste it again on release, and at release pricing it will be all too easy to keep pulling corks over the years. A remarkable wine, and a towering value in the landscape of top‑tier St‑Emilion.

2025 Angélus, St-Emilion
Review Date: 05-21-2026
I feel like Angélus has been chasing a style that speaks more clearly and transparently to their terroir, and in 2025 they’ve nailed it. You still get the layered black fruit and fine tannins, but it’s the balance that really grabs me—bright, focused, fully integrated. The wine builds on the palate with remarkable detail, bringing in floral notes, limestone salinity, and nuance after nuance, all carried by nearly invisible tannins. Flavorful and complex, open and bright, it’s a wine you could all too easily enjoy right now, yet it’s poised to evolve gracefully in the cellar for years. Congratulations to the team at Angélus for what they’ve crafted in 2025.

2025 Langoa-Barton, St-Julien
Review Date: 05-19-2026
Velvety and intense, the 2025 strikes me as a very serious Langoa, though perhaps not as stern as in years past. Lovely floral aromatics and a core of deep red fruit lead into a long finish framed by very fine, well‑integrated tannins. Few labels deliver as much value—or spark as much excitement—as a well‑aged Langoa Barton, and it’s hard not to notice how the wines have continued to improve lately. The drinking window seems to be broadening on the early side without sacrificing character. Count me in as a fan of 2025 Langoa Barton.

2025 Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac
Review Date: 05-19-2026
Lafite’s 2025 is awesome—easily among their finest of the past decade or more. With beautiful, classic aromas, a flawless texture, and mouthwatering notes of pure black cherry and cassis, it delivers the signature Lafite length and purity in full. Delicate and graceful without sacrificing depth, it’s a perfect reminder that concentration in a wine does not require weight. Seamless and full of flavor, driven by pure Cabernet (94%) energy, it’s an entrancing wine that reveals one layer of complexity after another. Those who tuck away a few bottles will have a masterpiece waiting for them in the years ahead. I’ve been a fan of their evolution over the past decade, as the wines now bring so much more joy in their youth than ever before. The 2025 delivers that—and then some. What a brilliant wine.

2025 Gruaud-Larose, St-Julien
Review Date: 05-19-2026
What I adore about Gruaud-Larosse these days is that they've somehow managed to keep the character of the estate that has defined their age-worthy, classic style, while still evolving in a way that has made their wines more apparent in their youth. Such is the case with the 2025, celebrating its 300th anniversary. The aromas are heady here, hinting at darker fruits and florals, but on the palate is bright, with a core of St Julien red fruit, seamless texture, and a ton of depth that both demands and deserves attention in the glass. This is a wine you'll want to spend time with, and at this release pricing, it's all too easy to do so.

2025 Larcis Ducasse, St-Emilion
Review Date: 05-13-2026
Larcis Ducasse is continuing to produce landmark wines that deserve attention among the finest on the Right Bank. Now under the direction of David Suire, who also crafts the incredible wines of Laroque, the estate has been going from strength to strength over the past decade. A literal stone’s throw from Pavie, the limestone, hillside soils of Larcis Ducasse have long yielded distinctive wines, but the refinement, tension, and complexity now seem to be operating on another level. Deep black‑fruit aromas hint at an imposing wine, yet waves of vivid red fruit, bright acidity, beautiful texture, and soft, integrated tannins reveal something far more expressive, precise, and endlessly compelling. A long, saline‑tinged finish keeps you coming back to the glass for this impeccable, delicious wine. At our En Primeur pricing, it remains one of the great values in the region, thanks to the combination of terroir, limited production, and remarkable quality.

2022 Lynch-Bages, Pauillac
Review Date: 05-11-2026
Is there a more custom-fit vintage for Lynch-Bages than 2022? This wine takes full advantage of a landmark Left Bank vintage, delivering loads of Pauillac character while showcasing the irresistibly delicious yet remarkably complex style that has defined the estate’s reputation over the past few decades. Aromatically compelling and striking in its balance of richness without excess weight, this is a long, extremely fine, and undeniable Lynch-Bages. I see a bit of the 2010 in this one, but with an added level of elegance and precision, thanks to tireless work in the vineyard and the revolutionary new winemaking facility. Combining the accessibility of the 2022 vintage with the depth and density that promise a long, graceful evolution, I expect we’ll be talking about this 2022 as a reference point for the estate for years to come.

2025 Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion
Review Date: 05-06-2026
Yields were low across Bordeaux in 2025, but then there’s Cheval Blanc, which produced roughly half of what many of its neighbors did. With fewer than 5,000 cases for the world, this is a wine to secure early for anyone who keeps the cherished Right Bank estate on their shortlist. But rarity alone does not make the wine—it’s what’s in the bottle that matters. What I found was an incredibly elegant, ethereal, and lifted Cheval Blanc, a wine whose concentration is on full display while remaining feather-light on its feet. There is ample structure, but it never feels demanding—if anything, it is refreshingly graceful. At a mere 12.7% alcohol, this is a poised and refined Cheval Blanc that will be fascinating to follow over the years, singular both in its production and in its profile.

2025 Malescot-St-Exupéry, Margaux
Review Date: 05-04-2026
There are few things more comforting than a great vintage of Malescot St-Exupéry, and this 2025 is firmly in that class. Aromatically, the wine hints at deeper black fruits, underpinned by Margaux’s signature floral note. On the palate, it opens with purity and poise, then builds to an explosive expression of fruit and flavor, expanding with terrific texture and detail. Well-judged acidity carries the richness effortlessly, resulting in a wine that deftly balances fruit and terroir. Jean-Luc and now Léa Zuger have done wonders with this property over the years, and this 2025 cuts no corners. When Malescot is this good—and priced this well—it’s often one of the most compelling wines to load up on during En Primeur.

2025 Pontet-Canet, Pauillac
Review Date: 04-28-2026
Pontet-Canet, a property on a qualitative run few can match, has quietly refined things even further in recent years while preserving its indelible character and refreshingly modest pricing—especially given its top-tier scores and Pauillac neighbors. The 2025 is a terrific example, delivering remarkable volume for a wine with just 13.3% alcohol and only 50% new oak. Black fruits line an inky core that is at once rich and finely balanced, with elegance and energy carrying through to a long finish marked by minerality, cocoa, and well-judged tannins. The scale and character are unmistakably Pontet-Canet, yet there’s a clear sense of careful management in both extraction and balance. Releasing early in the campaign at yesteryear pricing, Pontet-Canet seems intent on making a statement—one that reinforces its exceptional value as a collectible when the wine is this good.

2022 Brane-Cantenac, Margaux
Review Date: 04-22-2026
I’ve been watching Brane-Cantenac closely over the past decade as they’ve steadily raised their game, delivering some of the most refined and rewarding releases in Margaux during that time. It also doesn’t hurt that they’re among the kindest and most welcoming people in Bordeaux. But while their wines have been on the rise, the 2022 is on an entirely different level. Neal Martin even called it out in his recent Southwold tasting as "a wine for the ages," where it ranked fifth in the entire vintage, outscoring a few First Growths. The 2022 Brane-Cantenac leads with tons of typicité, showing unmistakable Margaux notes of florals, blackcurrant, and spice. The palate has a Cab-forward character, oscillating between black and red fruits, plum, cedar, graphite, and more. But the true mastery lies in its incredible freshness, textural refinement, and precision—the tannins are so pure, and the wine endlessly refreshing and long. To find this kind of ethereal expression in such a powerful vintage is a real tribute to the work being done at Brane-Cantenac. This deserves to be in the conversation for the top wine of Margaux—and one of the greats of the Left Bank in 2022. Considering that, the asking price is also very impressive.

2020 La Conseillante, Pomerol
Review Date: 04-17-2026
Conseillante has long been known for its incredible terroir in the heart of Pomerol—next to Vieux Château Certan, across the street from Cheval Blanc, and near Pétrus. But what Marielle Cazaux has accomplished at the estate over the past decade is another story altogether, elevating it from a fan favorite to a wine-of-the-vintage contender year after year. Such is clearly the case with the 2020, from an especially fine Right Bank vintage—a wine that received a 100-point score from The Wine Advocate, where it was called “a Pomerol of striking purity and sophistication.” Considering its elite status and roots in some of the world’s most treasured terroir, the asking price is remarkably reasonable for Pomerol perfection.

2016 Brane-Cantenac, Margaux
Review Date: 03-31-2026
We recently had the good fortune to revisit Brane-Cantenac’s 2016, and among a table of heavyweights priced many times higher, it emerged as a clear favorite. I was thrilled—but not surprised—to see this, as I’ve become increasingly infatuated with the estate, which seems to be producing one next-level vintage after another. Coincidentally, recent multi-decade verticals by both Jane Anson and Jeb Dunnuck place it at the pinnacle of the property’s achievements. Add in the exceptional quality of the vintage, and this could easily be a prohibitively expensive wine—but Brane-Cantenac somehow remains refreshingly grounded. The magic lies in its ability to capture Margaux typicité with remarkable precision. The 2016 is at once concentrated and weightless, seamless in texture yet layered with depth—an extraordinary balancing act that reflects both the estate’s signature and the vintage’s quality. For me, it embodies the ethereal, elegant side of Margaux (à la Château Margaux) more than the bolder, richer expressions (such as Palmer). Yet in terms of quality, I have no hesitation in placing it alongside these names. In every respect, the 2016 Brane-Cantenac is a masterpiece. For longtime admirers of the property, this is a must-have. And for those looking to reconnect with one of the region’s finest collectible values from a benchmark vintage, I cannot recommend it highly enough. Add in our Bordeaux-direct provenance and sharp pricing, and this stands as one of the great buys in collectible wine today.

2023 Suduiraut, Sauternes (375ml)
Review Date: 03-16-2026
When Suduiraut is at the top of their game, they easily rival the very best in Sauternes. That’s been happening a lot recently, with one spellbinding release after another. Is it the case with the 2023? The professional critics certainly seem to think so, with a 100-point score from Vinous to go along with best-in-class marks from nearly everyone else. And when you consider that acclaim alongside the going rate for Suduiraut, it quickly becomes one of the best buys in fine wine. I think this may be their best wine since the simply stunning 2015 (with the impossible-to-find 2021 in the conversation as well!). Like the best of the 2023s, Suduiraut hits that magical combination of richness and brightness—luxurious yet refreshing. Gorgeous aromatics layer stone fruit, citrus peel, and orange blossom, while the palate delivers grilled pineapple, blood orange, honey, key lime, and a thread of spice. But it’s the balance and texture that really steal the show—just the right amount of everything. Add the fact that it promises an effortlessly long, broad drinking window, and you won’t have to wait too long to get the best from the 2023 Suduiraut. For Sauternes royalty at a song, I can’t recommend this one enough. How lucky are we to be able to pull the cork on a wine this good without having to think twice?!

2023 Suduiraut, Sauternes
Review Date: 03-13-2026
When Suduiraut is at the top of their game, they easily rival the very best in Sauternes. That’s been happening a lot recently, with one spellbinding release after another. Is it the case with the 2023? The professional critics certainly seem to think so, with a 100-point score from Vinous to go along with best-in-class marks from nearly everyone else. And when you consider that acclaim alongside the going rate for Suduiraut, it quickly becomes one of the best buys in fine wine. I think this may be their best wine since the simply stunning 2015 (with the impossible-to-find 2021 in the conversation as well!). Like the best of the 2023s, Suduiraut hits that magical combination of richness and brightness—luxurious yet refreshing. Gorgeous aromatics layer stone fruit, citrus peel, and orange blossom, while the palate delivers grilled pineapple, blood orange, honey, key lime, and a thread of spice. But it’s the balance and texture that really steal the show—just the right amount of everything. Add the fact that it promises an effortlessly long, broad drinking window, and you won’t have to wait too long to get the best from the 2023 Suduiraut. For Sauternes royalty at a song, I can’t recommend this one enough. How lucky are we to be able to pull the cork on a wine this good without having to think twice?!

2023 d'Yquem, Sauternes
Review Date: 03-09-2026
What an incredible run Yquem has been on in the last few years. I suspect this will rival the famed ’88, ’89, ’90 trio as a sequence of landmark vintages—wines that exemplify one of fine wine’s great treasures at its peak. Stylistically, where the ’21 was focused and bright and the ’22 rich and decadent, the ’23 brings together the best of both, finding a middle ground without ever compromising complexity or depth. The aromatics on the 2023 Yquem might be worth the price of admission alone. This is one of those wines you simply want to spend time with, not rush. On the palate it is majestic, with a superb balance of texture and sweetness, lifted by a thread of acidity that keeps everything fresh. While I have no doubt it will age effortlessly, it should deliver immense pleasure throughout its long lifespan. 2023 Yquem is a truly special wine—one for the ages. Whether you're a longtime collector looking for the best from this iconic label, or someone hoping to experience the magic of this legendary Sauternes at its finest, this is a not-to-be-missed vintage.

Page: 1 2 3 next