1976 Louis Roederer "Cristal" Brut Champagne

The hot vintage notwithstanding, the 1976 Cristal comes across as remarkably lifted and light on its feet, with a gorgeous sense of translucence to play off the rich, deep fruit. Fully mature but also with enough freshness and energy to drink well for a number of years, the 1976 has it all. Wild flowers, mint, honey sage and orange peel are some of the many notes that shape the wine. Although splitting hairs at this level, for my taste, the 1976 is a bit heavy and ripe. There is no mystery. The 1976 gives up all of its (considerable) charms easily. That is not a bad thing, but I find a bit more elegance and nuance in some of the other vintages in this tasting. One of the most celebrated Champagne vintages of the 1970s, 1976 is remembered for very hot conditions that resulted in short growing season and a very early harvest. (AG)