2016 ArPePe "Sesto Canto" Valtellina Superiore Inferno Riserva (Nebbiolo)

There are lovely accents of eucalyptus and lavender to the rich fruit and spice character in this silky red, which delivers a generous beam of mulled cherry flavors. Finely balanced and long on the palate. A beauty. Drink now through 2036. (AN)

Inferno is the hottest pocket of Valtellina, south-facing rock that holds the sun like an oven, and Fiamme Antiche — the ancient flames — is ArPePe’s Riserva from terraces at 450 metres. Months on the skins, years in big casks and bottle before release. 2019 was a warm vintage, which here means bigger aromatics and softer tannins. In the glass, it pours a mid ruby with a garnet rim. The nose is haunting: dried cherry, dried rose, road tar, spice and the cool alpine perfume only this cellar delivers. On the palate, it is medium-bodied and juicy, with fine, dusty tannins, a saline grip and a long, warm, savoury finish. This is the Riserva to drink while the 2016s sleep. Venison stew, pizzoccheri, or an hour in a decanter and nothing at all.