2022 Domaine Roulot Meursault "Luchets" 6-Pack

The 2017 Luchets chez Roulot was showing very nicely at the time of my visit, sharing more structural snap with the very good Meix Chavaux. The nose delivers a fine constellation of pear, apple, hazelnut, spring flowers, chalky minerality, vanillin oak and a nice dollop of orange zest in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite solid at the core, with lovely backend mineral drive, bright acids and excellent length and grip on the poised and well-balanced finish.

A touch more muscular and textural than the Vireuils that preceded it, the 2017 Meursault Les Luchets reveals a lovely bouquet of Anjou pear, confit lemon, citrus zest, dried white flowers and nutmeg. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with succulent acids and chalky structuring dry extract. This is a terrific Luchets that is well worth seeking out. As I wrote late last year, Jean-Marc Roulot produced some of the wines of the vintage in 2016, and that's a feat he has repeated with an extraordinary set of 2017s. The fireworks begin with an impeccably balanced and intensely flavorful Bourgogne Blanc and peak with a Meursault Perrières that will likely rank among the greatest hits of his career. Pure, crystalline and incisive, tensile but intense, these wines show the Roulot style at its best. Revisiting the wines from bottle, I concur with Roulot's contention that 2017 can't quite match the magical "extra dimension" possessed by his 2014s. 2017, it's true, is tenderer, without quite the tongue-tingling, electric quality of his 2014 portfolio. In a sense, however, that only makes these wines more charming, and I suspect they will reward Burgundy lovers with broader drinking windows. Indeed, unless these wines shut down hard, it's difficult to imagine that there will ever be a bad moment to pull the cork on a 2017 Roulot. Even in today's overheated Burgundy market, it will be worth the effort to track down a few bottles of these magical wines. (WK)