2013 Salon "Le Mesnil" Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne

The brilliant nose, at once fresh, bright and complex, is even more beguiling than that of the 2012, which is already reference standard for anyone who loves blanc de blancs Champagne. Moreover, it is more expressive than I anticipated with its array of green apple, baked bread, just sliced citrus, quinine and a hint of Chablis-like iodine. The racy yet delicate mouthfeel of the lilting middle weight flavors that is enhanced by the super-fine, if decidedly firm, mousse before terminating in an already complex, harmonious and very dry yet not especially austere finale that goes on and on. Among many attributes to choose from, perhaps my favorite is the underlying sense of poise the '13 Salon exudes as it's classy as hell but not inaccessible; otherwise expressed, this is seriously good but borderline gulpable. In short, I was knocked out by this monument in the making and it's entirely possible that my rating will one day be found to be overly conservative. As longtime readers know, Burghound doesn't hand out point ratings like they're candy.

Very light, burnished gold and animated by an extra fine mousse, the 2013 Salon is an exquisite le Mesnil-sur-Oger Blanc de Blancs from a later, and slower ripening vintage. Aged ten years on fine lees and disgorged January 2023 with a six gram per liter dosage, the 2013 brings pure, aromatic luminescence to the glass with notes of warm tarte tatin, crème brulée, citrus confit, lemon sorbet, crushed oyster shells and viburnum blossom. Medium-bodied, the mineral-driven palate is texturally poised and completed by a measured depth of fruit intensity charged with seamless acidity that coats the palate like electric satin. Well-heeled and sophisticated throughout, this 2013 Salon is pure elegance, harmony and finesse. The incredibly long finish lingers in your mind for days, if not longer. (SM) 98+