1983 Palmer, Margaux (scuffed labels)

This wine goes from strength to strength, and is certainly a candidate for “wine of the vintage.” It has surpassed even Chateau Margaux in recent tastings. The color is an opaque plum/purple. The wine has a fabulously complex nose of smoked duck, white flowers, cedar, Asian spice, creme de cassis, melted licorice, and espresso. Super-concentrated, very powerful, full-bodied, and huge, this is undeniably, one of the biggest, most concentrated, and powerful Palmers made in the last 40 years. The wines has thrown off the rugged tannins that were so prominent during its first 10-15 years of life and has become increasingly seamless and compelling. Potentially this wine remains the most extraordinary Palmer after the 1961.

When the 1983 Palmer flies high, it touches the stars. This is another bottle proving that at 40 years old it is better now than ever before. It is completely resplendent on the nose that blossoms in the glass with that heady concoction of red and black fruit, freshly-rolled tobacco, violet petals and an underlying mineralité. Stunning delineation and depth. The palate is medium-bodied, never a powerhouse Palmer, which means that it’s cut from a different cloth to recent vintages. It is more harmonious than London’s Gospel Choir in full song, the finish perfectly pitched and delineated. It just carries itself with effortless ease. Magnificent. (NM)