2016 Aldo Conterno "Gran Bussia" Barolo Riserva

The Conterno family now waits for 10 years following the harvest to release a Riserva. It is a co-fermentation of the three oldest plots in Romirasco, Cicala and Colonnello. Still impossibly youthful, the 2016 is ever-changing in the glass. Cedar and pine morph into sage and rosemary, with subtle vanillin and perfumed earth weaving through. Saturates the mouth with fleshy cherry and dense plum cake. Nuances of ginger and powdered mint arise. Tannins are steely and rigid, almost immoveable at the moment. There is a smooth seamlessness to their steady power, then a vibrant hook on the finish. Lingers with juniper and heather. This needs much more time in the bottle. (MM)