2022 Domaine Bessin-Tremblay Chablis Grand Cru "Valmur"

Based on intelligent farming, one of the reference points for this storied vineyard is again Bessin-Tremblay’s 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur. Soaring from the glass with a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, featuring aromas of grapefruit zest, fennel and beeswax, mingling with crisp orchard fruit, it’s full-bodied, deep and layered, with tangy acids and a minerally, tensile personality, concluding with a persistent, saline finish. It has retained plenty of taut Chablisien character and unites the generosity of the vintage to great effect. While many worry of the warming climate, the Bessins have once again produced an excellent set of wines, and as far as their range is concerned, it does not get much better than this Valmur. Jean-Claude Bessin officially retired, handing over the reins to his sons, Romain and Antoine. Today, Romain is responsible for work in the vineyards, while Antoine manages the cellar. What was formerly Domaine Jean-Claude Bessin has been rechristened Domaine Bessin-Tremblay—Romain's mother, the source of many of the domaine's vineyards, being a Tremblay. The name may have changed, but the quality at this 12.3-hectare domaine in La Chapelle Vaupelteigne remains just as impressive.(KK)