2023 Charles Baur "Eichberg" Riesling Alsace Grand Cru

A very rich and full-bodied wine that’s properly dry with no hint of heaviness. On the front palate the ample tannin structure is masked by the ripe pineapple character, but it builds in the firm finish. The zesty lemon freshness helps keep it clean. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Riesling seldom gets the attention it deserves, let alone the Alsatian versions. Steely and mineral, they have a nerve and drive that accentuate the broader fruit flavors of the variety. Charles Baur has been one of our Direct Import producers from Alsace for years, and we have always enjoyed the wines. They offer some of the best value in the category, and in some cases, I think our own team may be among their biggest customers. With this new crop of arrivals—including a juicy Pinot Gris, an exceptional Sylvaner and a few sumptuous Gewürztraminers—it is the Eichberg Riesling that stands tallest among them. Back to Riesling: I love it dry, I love it off-dry and I love it sweet. The Eichberg is firmly in the dry camp, with beautiful pear fruit accented by that stony minerality I look for in great Alsatian Riesling. This comes entirely from the Grand Cru Eichberg, where clay-rich soils sit over limestone and sandstone. There is breadth here, but also plenty of energy, giving the wine a wonderful tension that makes it dance lithely across the palate. And what a perfect time to drink a wine like this. As we transition from summer into fall and eventually winter, Riesling becomes even more welcome at the table. It is truly a variety for all seasons and works with an enormous range of foods. This one would be terrific with the roasted birds we cherish in the cooler months, braised pork dishes where Riesling’s acidity cuts through the richness, or simply your favorite Asian takeout.