2020 Rocca di Castagnoli "Stielle" Chianti Classico Gran Selezione

A forthright Chianti Classico with aromas of dark cherries, violets and smoke. Full-bodied, it shows crisp, nervy acidity, velvety tannins and an angular finish. Drink or hold. (AF)

Gaiole is the high, cold, stony side of Chianti Classico, and Stielle is one of its oldest names: deeds from 1153 record vines on this hill, and the Calì family, owners of the fortress of Castagnoli since 1981, treat it as their grand cru. Nine hectares between 460 and 500 metres on alberese and limestone, old native clones of Sangiovese cropped at a kilo per plant and picked in the second half of October, native-yeast fermentation, 18 months in tonneaux and large casks, four more months in the big barrels and a year in bottle. 100% Sangiovese, as a Gran Selezione from Gaiole should be. In the glass, it pours a deep ruby. The nose is dark-toned and lifted: black cherry and plum, violet and lavender, licorice, clove, a thread of mocha and smoke that stays in its place. On the palate, it is full-bodied and potent yet fresh, with crunchy, enveloping tannins, the acidity of altitude and a long, savory finish. The best value in Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, no doubt about that.