2021 Berta Valgañón "Selección Natural" Rioja

Despite its name, this is not a natural wine, Berta Valgañón assures me. It's certainly a little funky and earthy, but that's part of the house style here. Made with co-fermented Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Garnacha, it combines aromas of sage, pine and forest floor with sappy, cool climate acidity and savoury tannins.