2023 Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

The old vine bottling of Gevrey villages from the Rossignols had just been assembled into tank the week prior to my visit. The wine is clearly going to be excellent, as it offers up a deep and pure bouquet of black cherries, sweet dark berries, grilled meats, coffee bean, dark soil tones, woodsmoke and a gentle touch of new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and really shows off a lovely core of fruit, with lovely soil signature, fine-grained tannins, excellent balance and a long, focused and tangy finish. (Drink between 2033-2070)

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes comes from 60- to 65-year-old vines. With quite a backward nose at first, the fruit profile leans more toward black than red, with touches of graphite in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with strict tannins and fine structure, though it needs a little more harmony and fluidity toward the finish, which falls away a just little too quickly. Give this two or three years.(NM)