1967 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo Riserva

The 1967 Barolo is simply off the charts. There is an extraordinary level of fruit to be found in the glass, along with subtle notes of plums, prunes and sweet balsamic spices that develop over time. Still rich and expansive, this generous Barolo is intensely beautiful. The 1967 Barolo remains one of the house's very finest all-time wines. It also captures an early transitionary period, as it was the first Barolo Mauro Mascarello made, although his father was still intricately involved. At the time, the family still made their Barolo from a combination of vineyards, a traditional approach which sought to combine the strengths of various sites. Sadly, this custom has long been abandoned by all but a tiny handful of producers, yet every time I taste Mascarello's 1967 Barolo and other first-class wines from this generation I often wonder what such a Barolo might taste like today with a contemporary approach to viticulture and winemaking. The 1967 Barolo is a blend of 45% Monprivato, 25% Villero and 30% Bussia Soprana, and the clonal blend is roughly 20% Michet, 50% Lampia and 30% Rosé. If I could only drink one Mascarello wine, it might very well be the 1967 Barolo. At 42 years of age, it is still breathtaking juice! (AG)