2024 Los Bermejos Malvasia Volcanico Seco Lanzarote Canary Islands

Staff Reviews

RR

Rachael Ryan

Rachael Ryan

K&L Buyer

Review Date: 08/2025

At first sniff, the Los Bermejos Malvasia Volcanica jumps out of the glass with juicy white peach and ripe apricot; however, it is on the palate where this wine truly shines. A gently gripping mouthfeel and saline-tinged flavor speaks to its volcanic origins, leading into an incredibly long finish. The variety itself – Malvasia Volcanica – is unique to the Canary Islands, as it is a crossing of Marmajuelo (an indigenous peach-skinned white grape) and Malvasía Aromatica. Intensely mineral-driven and savory, an intriguing green herbaceous note creeps in at the finish, adding even more complexity. So dense and concentrated, this wine just seems to go on and on, evolving on the palate. The textural component of this wine makes it an easy pairing for so many rich dishes, like soft cheeses, fatty cuts of tuna, or even tinned mackerel.

Notes

Owned and run by winemaker Ignacio Valdera, Bermejos is on the easternmost island of Lanzarote. Only 125km from the African coast, conditions here are extreme. A volcanic explosion that lasted from 1730-1736 covered the entire island in lava and ash 3-5 meters deep. Consequently, each vine must be planted in a hole or hoyo that breaks through that infertile volcanic crust of petrified lava to the organic matter that can nourish it. The wind, which acts as a natural fungicide, is so ferocious that each hoyo is surrounded by rock walls for protection. The flora on Lanzarote – including the vines – cannot grow up very high; there are not enough nutrients in the soil to support sprawling greenery. All vineyard work is done meticulously by hand. This wine is truly a reflection of the island, made from 100% Malvasia Volcanica, itself a Canary Island crossing of Marmajuelo (an indigenous peach-skinned white grape) and Malvasía Aromatica.