2023 Ministry of Clouds Grenache McLaren Vale South Australia

The 2023 Grenache comprises a blend of vineyards from McLaren Vale, three in Blewitt Springs (aournd 60% of the blend), and one in Clarendon (the balance). The picking dates cross over a wider aperture of time given the breadth of vineyards; in 2023, this spanned approximately three weeks, and to give some context, in 2024, that aperture was significantly contracted. In the mouth, the tannins are chalky and finely grippy. This is perhaps aided and abetted by the maturation vessels: these are demi-muid, old puncheons and concrete. The wine is racked only when absolutely necessary, and the total is comprised of nine different batches. It was made with 19% whole bunches. The wine was blended right at the end prior to bottling. This is less floral than the Grenache Carignan tasted prior, but it has more textural complexity and stamina through the finish. This is a beautiful wine, an eloquent message of McLaren Vale Grenache. It is light in the glass, intense in the mouth, saturating and sapid. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. (EL)

Grenache is always a bit of a chameleon, ranging from delicate and perfumed to dense and heady. The 2023 Ministry of Clouds Grenache is most definitely the former. Like all the wines produced by this small winery, harvest dates are on the earlier side and the ferments are handled gently to produce wines of great aromatic intensity, yet with moderate alcohol and a light-footed, lively mouthfeel. The fruit for this wine was hand-harvested from four very old bush vine vineyards — 58% from three neighboring Blewitt Springs vineyards planted in the 1930s and the balance from a vineyard in Clarendon planted in 1920. The wine was fermented in nine small lots, hand plunged and pumped over for gentle extraction of color and tannin, with some whole clusters included. Maturation was in neutral oak puncheons and concrete eggs for seven months. Medium garnet in the glass, the wine shows almost Pinot-esque aromas of Bing cherry and strawberry, complemented by wild fennel, faint cedar and garrigue on the palate. Old vine Grenache is one of the calling cards of McLaren Vale and this is such a sophisticated expression that showcases the terroir without overpowering the palate.