2022 Branaire-Ducru, St-Julien

This impressed during En Primeur and totally delivers on a promise of freshness, charm and drinkability. Juicy and succulent with the clean and crystalline fruit at the fore. Tannins meld seamlessly into the wine with only a hint of bitter chocolate and liquorice spice on the finish giving nuance. Layered and shiny - down plays the vintage in terms of concentration - this is sleek and glossy. Polished and well crafted. A tiny bit shy still - this will age very well - but also feels as if you could start to enjoy this soon. Wonderful. (GH)

2022 Branaire-Ducru is one of my favorite wines from the entire Left Bank in the 2022 vintage, no faint praise when considering the caliber of the vintage in question. At its heart, this is an incredible buy in collectible Bordeaux: it has the composure and caliber to stand up to peers at multiples of the price, yet is refreshingly and undeniably delicious at a price where it’s all too easy to pull corks. It’s also a great credit to François-Xavier Maroteaux and his team, who have clearly mastered the estate’s state-of-the-art winemaking facility without losing the thread of what has made Branaire distinctive across generations. For all the polish and precision of a top-tier vintage, it remains deeply of its place and quintessentially Branaire. Full of bright red fruits throughout, there’s a viscosity to the palate that speaks to a concentrated wine, but it still comes off bright and airy, with remarkably fine tannins and a long finish that brings out a slight minerality at the end. It is so composed, and somehow retains a classic St-Julien profile. The refinement and detail are just next level. I’ve considered this a special wine since tasting it En Primeur, and it’s done nothing but confirm its status among St-Julien’s elite since then. I’m thrilled to have this in my cellar, and I think anybody with a deep stash of 2022 Branaire-Ducru will be drinking like royalty for years to come.