Priorat is one of the most exciting wine regions in all of Spain. Priorat the wines, and the story, are foundational to my love of Spanish wines. Why, the first part should be obvious, the wines are delicious. Priorat the place and vineyards are incredibly romantic. An isolated region, in the mountains, with incredibly rocky soil. It is rocky, you can easily describe it as steep slopes of rocks and vines with some wild herbs. It is also a “rediscovered” region. I love the idea of young winemakers looking to all but abandoned historical growing regions for their opportunities to start their own projects. Priorat was one of the first and probably the biggest successes. Spain is full of these regions, for many reasons, and I it is one of my favorite things about it. Spain is about discovery. Wine is about discovery. What is great about the Cartuja is that Priorat is now an established region, one of the most important in the country and now there is a movement in response to the wines that were made when the region first caught everyone's attention. When most people think Priorat they think of powerful, big, and extracted wines. Like in regions the world over, things are changing. Priorat is a short drive from Barcelona. It is a dynamic city with a very vibrant wine culture. What is sought out there are fresher, lighter wines that are produced in “cleaner” more sustainable ways. Producers in Priorat are paying attention to this, and Cartuja is a wine that is made with those desires in mind.
This is an organically farmed wine, and they pay as much attention and take as much care in the winery. Having a light touch in the winemaking allows for the aromatic side of Garnacha and Carignan shine. It is not an exaggeration to say that this is a pretty wine. The mix of fresh ripe berries, both red and dark, accented with muted herbs and flowers, all over a stony/earthy note. Those aromas are translated to the palate, where the fruit takes on a touch more ripeness while it rolls along the palate. There is a dynamism to this wine, it is vibrant and energetic not bulky and powerful. It is not a light delicate wine, even if the flavors would suggest that it is medium/med full bodied with enough tannins to frame and provide grip, and clean but not tart finish. It is here, on the finish where the stony origins of the wine show, the is that classic lingering llicorella minerality. It is there, against that stony backdrop that the fruit echoes deepening and lengthening the wine. It is this lighter expression of the region which presents more opportunities for pairing and drinking. This doesn’t require a weighty rich meal, it will pair deliciously with it, as a contrasting element. This is a wine made for lighter Mediterranean cuisines (from all around the sea) but American cuisines too. For me this is a perfect Weeknight wine, it is ready for whatever your busy schedule presents to you and is just great before or after dinner just by itself.
