2021 Morgan "Highland" Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay

Year after year this is one of my go-to Chardonnays that never lets me down. Dan Morgan was a pioneer of the Santa Lucia Highlands planting Double L Vineyard in 1982 around the same time that Gary Pisoni established his first vines. Double L Vineyard (that forms the core of this wine plus some fruit from neighbors) is also one of the only organically farmed and certified vineyards in the AVA and has been for many many years. Despite being a stalwart for decades, 8 years ago winemaker Sam Smith joined the team at Morgan and has taken the wines to the next level. Sam has added a level of complexity and intrigue to the wines that I think elevates the beyond their peers. The 2021 Highland Chard starts off with subtle struck flint, toasted grains, white flowers, yellow stone fruit; the palate is nicely concentrated and packed with flavor yet the cool-climate, racy acidity keeps a lovely tension and vibrancy in the wine. Judicious use of oak frames the wine without intruding. The finish is full of wet granite mineral, preserved citrus, salted pepitas and lingering oak spice. A fantastic all-around bottle of Chardonnay that has great fruit and texture on the palate, nicely integrated oak and boundless energy and drive. Really classy stuff.