2019 Latour-Martillac, Pessac-Léognan

Rich ruby red colour, this is an excellent Latour Martillac that goes deep and wide, with muscular tannins that let juice run through them. A little subdued at first, it needs coaxing out of the glass as there is power here, but it builds slowly rather than shouting. Everything feels in place, with savoury fruits, cocoa bean, liquorice root and cigar box. Ready for ageing for a good few decades. 40% new oak, harvest September 19 to October 11.

The 2019 Latour-Martillac was a little perplexing from the barrel samples that I received a few months back. Now in bottle, here is the Pessac-Léognan I know, with ample blackberry, cedar, black olive and light marine scents on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, quite fleshy but still nicely structured, and showing fine backbone on the sappy, white-pepper- and sage-tinged finish. Now this is promising. (AG)

From a benchmark vintage, this Pessac-Léognan is a true standout. It reveals a complex bouquet of ripe blackberry, dark cherry, and the region's signature smoky, gravelly minerality. The palate is both rich and impeccably balanced, showcasing concentrated fruit flavors supported by polished tannins and fresh acidity. Hints of dark chocolate and spice emerge on the long, impressive finish. This is a serious, age-worthy wine that represents fantastic value.

This has that whole "serious" vibe going on in the nose, there's a lot of immediate depth and complexity and now that it's been open for a while and had time to develop there's a level of perfume and allure that's just second to probably some but not a lot. The nose is just a little kaleidoscopic, there's a shifting sort of perfume, fruit, barrel spice trifecta hitting on all cylinders. The fruit is red and black, ripe and ready with a little bit of something very slightly crunchy in the far background, like someone thought about a cranberry once. The perfume has this kind of pleasant potpourri quality, not at all Granny or cloying, but instead like fresh rose petals, a little touch of dried lavender, and a little bit of slightly wilted violets. The barrel spice is a constant background presence, lovely and dense and layered so expertly, never trying to be the star. The palate is the same and in the same order, rich dark fruit, a lovely dose of florals, and then more striking barrel spice, toast coming into the finish and mixing a bit with a little touch of dried tobacco and herbs, acidity making the whole palate absolutely sing. This is just such an absolute treat, a real gem of a wine that is so well balanced and really intensely deep, showing everything that you want in a regal and classy Bordeaux at a killer price.