2013 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 3-Pack in OWC

The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva blossoms in the glass in a display of understated power mixed with purity. This unfolds more like a whisper than a shout, wafting up with a delicate bouquet of fresh violets, lavender and a dusting of shaved cedar and clove. With time, it deepens further, pulling you down to earth with aromas of wild strawberry and underbrush. The textures are like pure silk gently draped across the palate, but what they leave behind is a more engaging and classic mix of salty mineral tones and tart red berries, all lifted by juicy acidity. This then takes another turn, now toward the savory spectrum, as wild herbal and inner earth tones mix with a fine layer of sweet tannin to create a youthfully austere yet not overtly structured expression, leaving a nuance of tobacco to linger long. The 2013 presents an intriguing interpretation of the Biondi Santi Riserva, one that shrugs off the grippy, gruff, almost rustic tannins of the past in exchange for a more youthfully harmonious expression. Will it age? Maybe not for 50 years, but considering that this beauty was open and tasted over the course of three days, I'm convinced that it will be thrilling for the next few decades to come. (EG)

The 2013 vintage is the estate's latest Riserva to be released, the winery’s 40th Riserva since 1888 and the first vintage in over 40 years without the leadership of Franco Biondi-Santi. Due to rainstorms in September, the family delayed picking until the end of the month, making 2013 a relatively late harvest for Biondi-Santi. Classic sour red cherry notes are accented by orange, sandalwood and fennel. The palate charms with its savoury expression, finely textured sandy tannins and underlying minerality. Understated and refined, it flows gracefully but will nevertheless benefit from a couple of years in the cellar. (MM)