2017 DRC Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru

Just a little more depth of purple in the centre. The nose has an impressive weight without much detail. Some fresh raspberry fruit starts to emerge, the weight is certainly there but the wine is not quite dancing today, not quite the precision that we expect and which will doubtless emerge with longer elevage. Doubtless the more classic rose petal notes will emerge. The finish is firmer than for the preceding wines, but I find that typical of La Tâche. On today’s showing I have scored the wine conservatively.

Other than perhaps a great Musigny, La Tâche is the most aromatically compelling wine in Burgundy with its perfumed fireworks in a glass with a nose that is ultra-spicy, exuberantly fresh and impressively broad-ranging array of rose petal, exotic and herbal tea, lavender, plum, violet, sandalwood, soy and a whiff of hoisin. There is a beguiling sense of underlying tension to the supple and almost easy-going mid-palate of the deceptively forward medium-bodied flavors that progressively tighten up on the dusty, exceptionally stony and saline if ever-so-mildly warm finish that flashes excellent depth and superb persistence as well as plenty of youthful austerity. This is a La Tâche of contrasts as the mid-palate suggests early accessibility yet the firm core of tannins makes clear that the 2017 LT will require extended keeping if you wish to experience it at its peak.