2012 Jean-Jacques Lamoureux "Alexandrine" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne

Staff Reviews

SB

Scott Beckerley

Scott Beckerley

This unusual 100% chardonnay comes from the Ardennes, where pinot noir is king. At first, it is all brioche, green and golden apple, and a faint hint of spice. As it opens up, poached pear and bright minerals with a touch of key lime come into play. This is a wonderful quality vintage and this wine has Vivien Lamoureaux's high quality standard. Did I mention fried chicken? This is the perfect pairing for it!

AH

Aaron Hughes

Aaron Hughes

There's a hint of what I feel has to be tarte Tatin on the nose of this, and it's not just because I have tarte Tatin on the mind. There's a ripe and rich hint of apple and, it's probably my imagination, but a flash of spice and a little bit of lemon zest. There's a subtlety and gentleness to this Champagne, it's like a welcome friend who has stopped by once again, familiar even though I've never tasted this before. The finish is soft and lingering with a really delightfully balanced acidity that makes this refreshing without being tart or over the top, making this another perfect summer sipper. Or autumn sipper. Or winter sipper. Or spring sipper. I mean, it's just a really delicious and approachable Champagne.

Notes

This wine is truly rare lumber. While the soil in Les Riceys, one of the southernmost villages in the Aube department, is the same kimmeridgian clay that one finds in Chablis, the climate is just that little bit more extreme. Les Riceys is only three miles from the boarder with Burgundy, but spring frost risk is much higher here and Chardonnay can only be planted on sites that avoid that frost. The Alexandrine plot is one of these. At over 900 feet of elevation, it is the highest vineyard in Les Riceys, and the south east exposure allows the morning sun to warm the vines at the most dangerous moment, while the steep, prominent hillside drains the cold air into the valley below. Vivien Lamoureux’s great grandfather first planted this plot in 1947, but the vines were replanted 20 years ago, giving us a rare glimpse of pure Chardonnay on kimmeridgian soil in Champagne. -Gary Westby, K&L