2016 Leeuwin Estate "Art Series" Chardonnay Margaret River Western Australia

2016 was an outstanding year, with an early, fine summer with daily sea breezes. Slightly above-average January and February temperatures were offset by a welcome 90mm of January rain. Markedly floral, there's a white blossom character to both nose and back-palate. It's a concentrated wine with gently granular fresh and dried pear notes, accompanied by silkier white peach. Succulent, ripe lemony acidity is well integrated and gently sheathed by nougat-inflected creamy lees. Lovely lithe mouthfeel and beautiful harmony. (SA)

The 2016 Art Series Chardonnay is showing its oak at this stage, but the fruit behind it is as powerful and overflowing as it must be in order to dovetail with its élevage in 100% new French oak. On the nose, you get flowers and leaves; it has a wonderful "bush" aroma of eucalypt, spring flowers, pink grapefruit, white pepper, bay leaf and even a hint coriander. The wine is velvety and sapid, with layers upon layers of flavor bound by invisible threads of salty acidity. It's savory; there's graphite, there's minerality, there's white spice; and to accompany it, there are lashings of ripe orchard fruit. It's a superb wine. I remember seeing this last year and thinking, "Now is about the right time to start drinking these wines" (i.e., seven years on from harvest), and I'd endorse that window again today. Sealed under screw cap. (EL)