2016 Bodegas Casa Juan Señor de Lesmos Crianza Rioja

Staff Reviews

JM

John Majeski

John Majeski

I'm always bemused by the fanciful fact that Senor de Lesmos never existed, but the wine, ah the wine, thankfully is very real and expresses all the generosity and character of traditional winemaking in Rioja. Rooted in the yellowed clay soils of Rioja Alavesa, the lustrous fruit for this wine consists mostly of Tempranillo, with a smattering of Mazuelo. Gently harvested clusters are rushed to the bodega, destemmed and then fermented in concrete tanks for almost a month before assembling in older barrels for aging. Upon release, this Crianza is beguiling and alluring, with notes of red and black fruits, spicebox, saddle leather and sweet tobacco. Ready to take on tapas, lamb skewers or a paella, this is a welcome and versatile wine for any occasion.

Notes

As is the case with so many other great spots in Spain, Bodega Casa Juan is located opposite the village church, in the beautiful walled pueblo of Laguardia. The winery is a converted flour mill, featuring concrete tanks for fermenting and blending the wine; and for aging, barrels that are used for up to seven years. These are traditional Riojas in elaboration and spirit, though the site specificity of their Laguardia and Villabuena vineyards confers a fruit character all its own to these wines. And what fruit! This crianza is a potpourri of mixed berries, with great purity and cut that provides a lovely contrast to the spiciness and oak nuances. Casa Juan's wines are somehow spicy and very drinkable, yet structured and fresh in a way few classic Riojas are. All estate fruit, hand-harvested and carefully vinified with native yeasts, this is a hand-sewn wine with the purity, texture, and elegance to prove it.