2013 Robert Mondavi "To Kalon Vineyard Reserve" Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon (1.5L)

A defining element of the greatness of Napa Valley’s 2013 vintage is apparent in the wines that were not pushed and hyper-extracted: They show their provenance with clarity. This wine does not lack for extract, but carries it with the effortless grace of a classic Oakville cabernet. Geneviève Janssens selected the fruit for this Reserve from her favored blocks at To Kalon, Mondavi’s estate vineyard behind the winery in the western benchlands of Oakville; this vintage comes from blocks replanted between 1996 and 2000. The black plum fruit is almost tarry in its warm, smoky tannins, but there’s a red core that emerges, a pungent center that darkens and deepens at the edges. Decant it if you open this now, to serve with dry-aged beef.

Bright, saturated ruby. Very dark, highly perfumed aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, cassis, licorice, minerals and spices, lifted by a peppery nuance (winemaker Geneviève Janssens noted that Robert Mondavi always liked Cabernet Franc, even back in 1966). Extremely tight and savory, showing an herbal element and conveying an impression of strong acidity. This strikes me as not especially ripe in the context of the vintage but it's extremely backward today. Finishes with big, mouth-clenching tannins and a note of youthful bitterness. Decant this if you plan to open it in its youth--or, better yet, forget it in the cellar for six or seven years. This large-scaled but rather opaque wine is almost painful today but holds out considerable potential and may ultimately merit a significantly higher score. 92+ (ST)