2014 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart Grand Cru (Mommessin)

The 2014 Clos de Tart Grand Cru will contain 40% whole bunch fruit in the final. It was picked from September 17 until September 22. This blend that I tasted included the young vines at the bottom of the vineyard that may or may not be deselected to make a Forge de Tart (the decision will be made next year). It is also the first vintage that does not include old vines at the northwest corner that were pulled up in spring 2014, due to be replanted in four years' time. It has a very well defined bouquet with cranberry and wild strawberry fruit, fine mineral tones and is quite harmonious with hints of wet limestone. The palate is medium-bodied and I feel this has tightened up since I tasted it in September 2015. The fruit also seems a little darker. Blackberry and wild cherry, with a hint of cola and certainly more tangible mineralité on the finish, as you can feel the mouth tingling long after it has bid adieu. Readers will be aware that I tasted the 2014 back in September at retiring winemaker Sylvain Pitiot's retirement do. Nevertheless I thought it would be appropriate to return a couple of months later to taste with new winemaker, Jacques Devauges. It also gave me a chance to walk down through the vineyard from Laurent Ponsot's winery and get a feel for the terroir - bracing it was too as I tramped through the vines to quizzical stares of those doing the first pruning of the vines. (NM)