2016 Montrose, St-Estèphe

A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc, the 2016 Montrose is deep garnet-purple in color. It comes tearing out of the glass with rambunctious scents of creme de cassis, juicy blackberries, and blueberry pie, leading to hints of menthol, dark chocolate, licorice, and tree bark with a touch of crushed rocks. The medium-bodied palate is chock full of bright black fruits with loads of spicy sparks and a firm, wonderfully velvety texture, finishing long and energetic. (LPB)

The blend is unchanged since the primeurs, being 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc, and it accounts for just 37% of the crop. The élevage lasted 18 months and was conducted in barrels using 60% new oak. The nose is truly striking, showing both intensity and fragrant perfume combined;on one side we have the dark fruits, pure and tightly defined, with notes of peppered blackcurrants and black olives, while on the other the nose is all about floral perfume, violets and verbena. The palate focuses first on the dark and intense side of the nose, textured but well framed, with clean lines of acid and tannin holding in the savoury fruits, which ratchet up the salty, bouillon -like intensity which can be seen in La Dame de Montrose. It is so intense and concentrated, and yet so lightfooted, with such subtle seams of tannins, velvet-like, which caress rather than dominate the palate. This is a stunning wine, clearly a candidate for wine of the vintage, rather as the 2014 was. It lingers long, savoury, bitter and ultimately remarkable.