2015 Jean-Michel Dupre "1935" Morgon

As I have noted in the past, the Morgon 'Vignes de 1935' bottling from Jean-Michel Dupré hails from the lieu à dit of Grand Cras at the base of the Côte du Py. These old vines celebrated their eightieth anniversary in 2015 and offer up a eally superb bouquet of red and black cherries, dark soil tones, a touch of cola, wood-smoke, fresh thyme and just a touch of balsam bough in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, ripe and gently chewy, with a superb core, fine focus and grip, moderate tannins and very good length and grip on the quite pure, albeit youthful finish. Like many of the most successful 2015s, this has a bit of tannin to resolve, but is focused and shows only a whisper of sur maturité. I suspect this will have a gently roasted personality at full maturity, but it is fine juice in need of just a bit more bottle age to blossom. 2018-2040. 91+

The 2015 Morgon Vignes de 1935, aged for 6 months in concrete vats, has an uncomplicated raspberry, crushed strawberry and slightly tertiary bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy, ripe red fruit, well balanced and perhaps less outgoing than many other Morgon 2015s. Yet the restraint pays off because there is great freshness and delineation here - a harmonious Morgon with a lovely touch of brown spices towards the finish. This is very satisfying and it should age well over 5-7 years. (NM)