2015 Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan

Packed with black cherry and damson fruit, with a smoky curl of grilled sandalwood and cloves, this continues to deliver, as it has since En Primeur, and although there are tons of tannins that will take it through decades, it has not closed down too tightly, and can be enjoyed now with a long carafe. I often say that Smith Haut Lafitte is the wine to choose if you want to be sure of making people happy, while still delivering a sense of occasion and complexity, and it comes across so well in this vintage, with its cocoa bean and cappucino creaminess, and grippy acidity with salted cracker finish. 60% new oak, Fabien Teitgen technical director. Organic and biodynamic farming. 2015 is also an important year hear, marking 650 years since the founding of Smith Haut Lafitte and 25 years of the Cathiard family’s ownership.

Smith Haut-Lafite sits on free-draining, günz gravel, with the 2015 showing classic smoky, earthy Graves character with herbs, spices and freshness on the palate. On the intense nose, floral notes and subtle new oak support the fruit. Although there is a silky, intense and concentrated core to the fruit, this is not at all showy - just a wonderfully balanced and complete example of Cru Classé Pessac-Leognan. (AH)