2002 Charles Ellner "Séduction" Brut Champagne

(60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir): Vivid yellow. A fragrant, spice-accented bouquet evokes ripe pear, peach and chamomile, with hints of brioche, smoky minerals and anise adding complexity. Offers chewy pit and orchard fruit flavors braced by a citrussy element that adds grip and cut to the back half. This rich yet lively wine finishes with strong thrust and a lingering touch of toasty lees. (JR)

Do you have enough 2002 Champagne left in your cellar? I don't think anyone (except for the Ellner's in Epernay!) could ever answer yes to that question. The Seduction Brut is the most exciting older vintage Champagne that we have brought in direct in a long time, and I can't believe the value for money that it offers. The nutty, brioche filled nose gives way to a lively, chalky, bright and dry finish. This wine is so loaded and complex I just about filled up my notebook when tasting it, I found everything from cherry preserves to nougat in it. The finish has the rare peacock tail effect that usually only old great Burgundy brings to me, but with all of the refreshment of Champagne... Yum!