2002 Gosset "Celebris" Vintage Extra Brut Champagne

The 2002 Gosset “Cuvée Celebris” continues to open up beautifully as it evolves with bottle age, and if anything, the wine is even finer today than was the case when I last tasted it a year ago. As readers may recall, this vintage of Celebris is a blend of fifty-two percent chardonnay and forty-eight percent pinot noir and was finished with a dosage of five grams per liter. The wine is starting to show beautiful secondary layers of complexity on both the nose and palate at age fifteen, wafting from the glass in a complex constellation of apple, a touch of fresh apricot, brioche, complex, chalky minerality, almond, gentle smokiness and a touch of orange zest in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and complex, with excellent focus and balance, plenty of concentration at the core, very refined mousse and a long, elegant and utterly suave finish. The 2002 Celebris has now entered its plateau of peak maturity, but will continue to cruise along with grace for at least another twenty-five years in bottle. Superb wine.

The 2002 Celebris Vintage Extra Brut displays a noble, clear, fresh and subtle bouquet with white fruit and brioche flavors intertwined with mineral aromas. Silky textured and highly elegant, this full-bodied yet delicate blend of 48% Pinot Noir and 52% Chardonnay is clear and straight on the palate, revealing a ripe and intense, yet refined fruit. It has a persistent and complex, firmly structured, stimulatingly pure and salty finish. Great finesse and ethereal lightness here, with great purity and mineral tension. It also has the intensity of perfect fruit in the long and persistent finish. A great Champagne for the next ten and probably many more years. (SR)