2004 Ruinart "Dom Ruinart" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne

This is deep and more layered than many with an already complex and sweet-smelling nutty and toasty edge; it really has a very deliberate, almost showy style of toasty character. It opens to revel in freshly squeezed lemon juice and peach fruits, grilled nuts and hints of spices and flowers. Very, very complex. The palate has compression and focus with really impressive acidity and a long, super-attractive mid-palate. There's an almost sherbet-like fresh layer in the midst of great depth, drive and focus. All the while, it retains a thread of creamy, fleshy fruit presence. Dosage is lowest ever for Dom Ruinart in 2004 at 5.5g per litre.

Our first appointment of our 2016 staff Champagne summit was with Champagnes oldest house- Ruinart, which was founded way back in 1729. They have been shipping Champagne for 47 years more than we have been a country! I thought that their 2004 Ruinart "Dom Ruinart" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne stood out. It is composed of all Grand Cru Chardonnay with 69% sourced from the Cotes de Blancs and the balance sourced from Sillery and Puisieulx, two sites on the north face of the Mountain of Reims. With ten years of ageing on the lees, the wine has wonderful vanilla cake dough richness, but is still vibrant and fresh. The characteristic chalky drive of the classic 2004 vintage makes for a long, bright finish, and this wine should continue to improve for decades. Unlike many big names, their vintage program, which this Blanc de Blanc is just one part of, represents only 1% of their production. The high degree of selection really shows!