1996 Lynch-Moussas, Pauillac

The 1996 Lynch-Moussas is still surprisingly deep in colour, quite limpid, with little sign of its age. The bouquet is classic ‘old school’ Pauillac with pencil shavings infusing the black fruit, touches of cold black tea and mahogany bureau. The palate is medium-bodied with an East Asian-tinged opening, hoisin and a pinch of white pepper. This displays better than expected substance and cohesion, lightly spiced on its finely-tuned and quite vigorous finish. The 1996 is drinking perfectly now and, on this showing, should give another 12-15 years of drinking pleasure. (NM)