1989 Gruaud-Larose, St-Julien

Delivers fabulous aromas of crushed red fruits, with leather, tar, tobacco and mint. Full-bodied, offering supersoft and silky tannins, as well as a beautiful polish. Open and luscious, with amazing richness of fruit and decadence at the same time. (JS)

There are few things in Bordeaux more rewarding than opening a beautifully mature bottle from a great vintage, and the 1989 Gruaud Larose is a wonderful reminder of why we collect these wines in the first place. Gruaud Larose was on an extraordinary run throughout the 1980s, producing some of the most memorable wines in the château's long history. The 1989 is another terrific example of what made this era so special, and it's particularly exciting to have it available as a recent ex-château release, with impeccable provenance and more than 35 years of age. What I love about mature Gruaud Larose is how its unmistakable character evolves over time. The 1989 brings together an inviting combination of cassis, dark cherry, cedar, tobacco, and worn leather, with hints of spice and the savory, earthy complexity that makes aged Bordeaux so compelling. The palate retains an impressive core of fruit, but it's the structure that really makes this wine. The tannins have softened beautifully while maintaining definition, and a lovely thread of acidity keeps everything fresh and lively through a long, nuanced finish. The celebrated 1989 vintage produced some of Bordeaux's most memorable wines, and Gruaud Larose offers a particularly compelling look at the more traditional side of that remarkable year. There's a wonderful balance of maturity, character, and vitality here, and with its recent ex-château provenance, this is precisely the kind of opportunity that lovers of mature Bordeaux shouldn't miss.