2016 ArPePe "Rocce Rosse" Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva (Nebbiolo)

This is how the Valtellina remembers Arturo Pelizzatti Perego: the year was 1984, and he decided to make his Riserva in the heart of Sassella. He and his wife Giovanna named it Rocce Rosse for the iron-rich red rocks of the subzone, and it has been the reference wine of the valley ever since. The 2016 — one of five Riserva vintages in fifteen years — spent 97 days on its skins and nearly three years in wood and cement before its long rest in bottle. In the glass, it pours a bright, lifted, translucent ruby. The nose is understated at first, then blood orange, dried apricot, cinnamon stick, nutmeg and tanned leather. On the palate, it is striking in intensity yet light on its feet, with iron and rust recalling the rocks, silky tannins, brisk acidity and a finish of extraordinary length.