2021 Brane-Cantenac, Margaux

A dark seductive nose, liquorice, sweet and sticky with a real depth to the aromatics, black chocolate and perfumed blackcurrants - that glamour that Margaux does so well. High acid here, crunchy fruit with bite and ample appeal. This is a little high-toned still, with the focus on the mineral, slightly austere sides to the bright and youthful strawberry fruit with toasted wood edges. Tannins are so supple and integrated however, they give a plumpness but this is still quite a linear wine, with such tension and drive - it's tightly-knitted no doubt but has the most gorgeous herbal Cabernet elements on the fresh finish which I totally love. You get understated power, this feels well controlled, sophisticated and totally delectable. What a lovely 2021. Eric Boissenot consultant. 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmenère complete the blend. 3.66pH. (GH)

Purity and typicité headline my notes for Brane-Cantenac, another one of the classic properties in Bordeaux that is really taking things to a next level in recent years. Very layered with a good depth of red and black fruits, it manages to also delivery striking elegance along with fine tannins and measured acidity. One of the great successes of Margaux in 2021, it is another fine chapter in the modern era of a fan-favorite estate.