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After 18 years of buying spirits for K&L, this special parcel may be my crowning achievement. Just a few years ago, it would have been nearly unfathomable that we could gain access to stocks of this quality at such low prices. We have, of course, bottled similar whiskies before. Years back, we secured a 1991 version from Hunter Laing, and only last year we offered a Faultline barrel from 1998 that sold out almost immediately. Now, we bring you another "Single Vintage Blended Malt" a full decade that barrel's senior for exactly the same price. It is an absolute coup and, if I’m honest, may get me in a little trouble, but that surely will not stop me. My style has always been to ask forgiveness rather than permission. The true challenge with stocks like this is how you label them. We cannot, under any circumstances, place the distillery name on the label, even though it is beyond doubt where the whisky comes from. The once-accepted trade name Burnside belongs to our dear friends at Cadenhead, and out of respect (and good sense, given their well-known litigious nature) we would never infringe on it. So the question becomes, what do we call this whisky? Our friends at Duncan Taylor sold us that wonderful barrel for our Faultline label that they dubbed “The Huntley,” a reference to their hometown. That option was off the table for us. After some consideration, we settled on a playful nod to our friends in Campbeltown: “The Sideburns.” We are not the first to use the name, but ours is plural, because who on earth needs just one Side-burn? Needless to say, this is one of the most outrageous deals I have ever had the honor of brokering for our shop. It represents the pinnacle of my ongoing effort to push back against one of the most damaging trends in our industry: the erosion of value for the end consumer. If you destroy the primary market for great whisky by pushing prices beyond reason, you eventually destroy the market itself. Too many producers have forgotten the first rule of selling anything: give customers what they want at a price they can afford. Start with the customer’s experience and build the system backward from there, rather than forcing corporate projections and marketing jargon down their throats. What do customers want? Great old malt whisky. But in today’s marketplace, finding a bottle over 25 years old that delivers real value in the glass is nearly impossible. Certainly there are other ways brands create value for their customers through lifestyle, image, luxury packaging, or grand storytelling. But if the true measure is taste—and for me it always is—you will struggle to point to a single product that offers what this whisky does at anywhere near this price. This parcel is, without exaggeration, one of the finest opportunities ever presented to lovers of Scotch worldwide. I hope this is only the beginning. If we can continue to secure parcels like this through new channels, then perhaps we can begin to chip away at the barriers keeping customers from enjoying extraordinary old whisky rather than just looking at them. For now, I am confident in saying this is easily the greatest Scotch deal K&L has offered in its 40-plus year history.

There have been few greater pleasures in my 20-plus years exploring whisky than the opportunity to taste blind. It happens so infrequently, and I have officially exhausted my credits asking my wife to organize tastings, that I simply never get to do it. So when our friends at Thompson Bros first mentioned this project a couple of years ago, I was absolutely floored. They proposed sourcing a huge variety of single casks and bottling them without revealing any specific details until the bottle was opened. I assumed the federal regulators might object, but it turns out the required information can be concealed beneath the capsule. The craziest part of the project is the extraordinary effort the brothers have made to balance the quality of every six-pack. Buy a sealed case and you are guaranteed six completely different single casks, carefully selected so that the overall quality remains remarkably consistent from case to case. It is a ready-made blind tasting requiring virtually no effort, and the list of possible casks is genuinely exciting and unusual. The project has now attracted significant international attention, and distillers increasingly see it as a calling card for their stocks rather than some goofy side project. As a result, the brothers have been able to source particularly compelling barrels for the series. I opened six and could not have had more fun. With a little care, you can easily avoid identifying the distillery when opening each bottle. Simply leave the foil around the cap intact, note which side conceals the round sticker underneath, and keep it facing away. You will have an instant blind tasting of the highest order. For several of these casks, this is the first expression from this distillery ever sold in the US. The list is HERE of what you might encounter: PLEASE NOTE ALL CASKS ARE BOTTLED 48% without Chill-filtration. Distillery AGE No. Bottles Cask Type Speyside 29 Year 89 Btls Refill Sherry Butt Inchmurrin 28 Year 24 Btls Refill Sherry Butt Inchgower 27 Year 29 Btls Refill Bourbon Hogshead Bruichladdich 21 Year 8 Btls First Fill Bourbon ASB Teaninich 17 Year 30 Btls Oloroso Hhd Tormore 17 Year 173 Btls Sauternes Cask Royal Bra 16 Year 19 Btls Refill Hhd Craigellachie 15 Year 64 Btls Refill Hhd Teaninich 12 Year 36 Btls Stout Barrel Bunnahabhain 11 Year 27 Btls Refill Hhd Wolfburn 11 Year 8 Btls Sherry Hhd Lochranza 10 Year 79 Btls Refill Sherry Hhd Kingsbarns 8 Year 133 Btls First Fill Bourbon Torabhaig 7 Year 149 Btls First Fill Bourbon Nc’Nean 5 Year 159 Btls STR Dornoch 5 Year 56 Btls Rye & Bourbon Lagg 5 Year 21 Btls First Fill Bourbon Glasgow 5 Year 10 Btls American Oak Virgin ASB Lochlea 4 Year 162 Btls Refill Bourbon Raasay 4 Year 120 Btls Dutch Oak Virgin Hhd

There’s simply nothing more fascinating in the whisky world than the inner workings of the big Scotch industry. From the outside, it looks like an industrial monolith of unfathomable proportions, and it’s easy to forget that the whole thing is run by people doing difficult, often dirty jobs. And people make mistakes! Sometimes someone accidentally empties a tanker of top-tier sherried single malt into a vat containing a tiny amount of young grain whisky. What can you do? In the old days, you might have ended up with a slightly better batch of Cutty Sark. Today, that malt is far too valuable to disappear into an everyday blend. Thankfully, our friends in Dornoch have excellent relationships throughout the industry and get first crack at some extraordinary parcels. Better still, they had the patience to give this one more time. While the front label says nine years, we understand that 99.999% of the contents is sherry-matured single malt from one of Scotland’s most prestigious distilleries, now aged 15 years. Incredible for $65. This is the final batch of this particular parcel, so we’ll have to wait for someone else to make a very expensive mistake before anything like it comes around again. Shall we? The color is a vibrant burnished gold (1.1). The nose is pure oloroso: roasted nuts, oxidative depth, leather, stone fruit compote, marmalade, roasted arabica, and the wonderfully evocative scent of an old dunnage warehouse. The palate opens sweetly with dense stone fruit, mostly apricot, before an oily mid-palate delivers old-school sherry rancio. It’s less sugary and less dominated by red fruit than many modern sherry bombs, but it sacrifices nothing in character. To my palate, these flavors are closer to great old sherry itself than the overtly wine-driven profiles we encounter so often today. This is one of the best Scotch whisky deals we’ve ever offered, a truly special bottle whose quality is immediately apparent, even without knowing the improbable story behind it.

This ridiculous barrel represents what I would consider the pinnacle of craft whiskey in the US today. Westward have been at this for a long time, and they've ridden out an incredible roller coaster as the industry has ebbed and flowed over the last 20 years. Part of what makes Westward so unique is the way they treat their wort, and the resulting spirit is unlike any in the US, Scotland or beyond. Anyone who knows me knows I'm all for experimentation, but the resulting product must be at least as good as or better than products made using tried-and-true methods, or it's simply a waste of time. And we've established that Westward is capable of making incredibly special whiskies on par with the greatest spirits in any category: see the Milestone Solera whiskey. But we've yet to find a single cask that was able to capture that same complexity, unique character and overt opulence...until now. This ridiculous little barrel offers a completely unique experience, producing a similar profile to the absurdly fruity Milestone with the added tension, powerful character and deep woodsy goodness of a cask-strength new oak malt. It may be my favorite malt whisky aged exclusively in new charred American oak that I've tasted in many, many years, maybe ever. Here it comes! The color is a truly dense shade of auburn (1.5). The nose immediately transports me to a forest in the fall: underbrush, dense oak, earthy spice. But with aeration, an incredible transformation occurs, offering tropical mango, coconut oil, cacao nibs, quince jam, persimmon and candied orange peel. On the palate at full proof, the oily texture is the first striking note, and the second is the ridiculous tropicality. While the oak is obviously powerful and intense, it doesn't feel hard or bitter at all. With water, the nose moves more toward red fruit, and the palate totally relents, softening and opening to a huge, fruity chocolate compote, like a chocolate-covered cherry filled with kirsch. This is simply one of the most impressive craft whiskies on the market today and provides a completely distinct experience while matching or besting the experience traditional distillers from either KY or Scotland offer at nearly any price point. BRAVO!!!

One interesting aspect of creating store brands is the inherent skepticism many consumers have when presented with a product that looks too good to be true. That skepticism is understandable when more than one of our competitors is more concerned with the profits their store brands deliver than the quality inside the bottle. I stand by everything we've ever put our name on, from the lowly Faultline Blended Scotch for $20 to the single-barrel Buff Turkeys we bottled for many hundreds of dollars. If I'm going to put our name on it, I'm simply not comfortable having anything less than exceptional in the bottle. That said, it's very, very difficult to put great single malt into a bottle for under $50, and doing so in any meaningful quantity is simply impossible. Yet here we are with this incredible little Balblair, a rarity among independent bottlings, from a forgotten project that seems to have just been left to sit. Now, after many years finishing in old ex-Cognac octaves, this special little Highland malt is a pure joy. And while it won't be available indefinitely, we did get a nice little chunk of it, and I'm hoping we can periodically offer a great 10-year-old malt under our label for less than $40. So let's taste it. The color is a typical and attractive old gold (0.6). The nose offers an almost idyllic deep malt tone, with sweet, fudgy nougat and dense Highland shrubbery of heather and thistle, balanced by twinges of bright citrus and sweet stone fruit. It's not funky at all, as some naked Balblair can be, and the old French oak is extremely subdued, creating a beautiful frame for this special Highland malt. The palate offers chocolate and apricots, with a medium body and a pleasant spicy note that builds into a sweet, herbal finish. It's not a super powerful or in-your-face style, but it's damn drinkable and cheap enough to throw around or make a great Scotch cocktail with. We simply need more wonderful malt at this price point, and this is hands down my favorite thing on the shelf for the money.

Year after year, Signatory brings us some of the best casks anywhere in the industry, and over the past two years they have recommitted to putting absolutely insane deals on the table for us. This year it’s a selection of classic Islays alongside this impeccable Ben Nevis. There was a period just a few years ago when similar casks were trading for twice this price, but here we have an absolutely perfect refill sherry butt, still very active, that simply transcends the market. There’s almost nothing anywhere in the world that’s better on the market today in this style, dollar for dollar. Here we go! This is ridiculously dark for a second fill sherry cask, a gorgeous mahogany (1.6). The nose is a huge mélange of waxy, earthy funk, pulverized rock, and sweet roasted nuts. It’s clearly holding so much at bay in its cask strength form, and air opens it into a basket of walnut brittle, loose leaf tobacco, dried cranberry, carnauba wax, old bike parts, semi dark chocolate, and dashi broth. Not at all for the faint of heart. We love an idiosyncratic Ben Nevis, but for the uninitiated we may need to take baby steps. On the palate it’s rich and oily, offering huge savory underbrush and salty nuts balanced by sweet raisin fruit and an underlying oily texture. It’s simply quintessentially, unapologetically original Ben Nevis. With water it softens and sweetens somewhat, though in this rare case I truly prefer it with air and time rather than the softening effect of water. The only complaint might come from those hoping for a Nevis in skimpier clothes, but the sherry is so well integrated and never overwhelms the density of the spirit that even the most staunch anti oak brigadier general might admit the superiority of this style. If you have only $80 to spend on malt this quarter and don’t need something peaty, this is the obvious slam dunk you’ve been looking for. I’m buying three.

The wild success of the Sideburns 35 Year has rattled the cage of more than one large company in Scotland. If you haven’t seen my review of that product, I highly recommend taking a look: https://shop.klwines.com/products/details/1918829 . The short version is this: we may be on the precipice of a new golden age of Scotch, and K&L is perfectly positioned to take advantage of the market asymmetry. While our marketing of the previous batch was met with side eyes and raised eyebrows from the original owners of the stocks and trademarks, other suppliers with similar inventories saw it as a signal. This was an opportunity. It would seem our prayers have been answered. Another incredible value in old malt has landed in our lap, and this time the deal is even more impressive. There are, of course, differences in the stock. This distillate comes entirely from November 1989 and was matured in refill hogsheads, rather than the first-fill sherry hogsheads of Batch #1. The proof is slightly lower, but still a robust 47-48% for a whisky of such advanced age. Remember, Scotch typically loses up to 1% ABV per year and enters the cask around 63%. So yes, older, slightly lower in proof, and without the fashionable sherry influence, yet 25% cheaper. If you ask me, old malt like this absolutely thrives in refill hogsheads. While I often insist on first or second fill for younger whisky, at this age the nuance of second or third fill can be profoundly beneficial. In any case, if it’s not already clear, this malt is drawn almost entirely from one of Speyside’s most beloved distillers. Search “Burnside,” the Cadenhead/Springbank-owned blended malt, if you want clues to the source. We’re being intentionally careful about naming names, but suffice it to say this parcel comes from the cellars of one of the industry’s most powerful blending houses. Whether it was once destined as a top note for premium blends or simply forgotten stock, it now stands as perhaps the greatest value I’ve ever offered. Twice in six months. It really does feel like the start of something bigger.

This special old barrel was bottled by our friends at Dornoch Distillery under the festive Dornoch Castle Hotel Anniversary label. This series of exceptionally curated casks was selected to commemorate 25 years of independent family ownership of the special property in the gorgeous little eponymously named town. The hotel is the site of both the original Dornoch Distillery and the fabulous whisky bar that Phil and Simon worked so hard to curate in the early years. It remains one of the world’s great whisky bars, tucked into a little corner of the hotel’s modest restaurant. It is simply unconscionable that the fabulous Glen Garioch distillery remains underappreciated by the wider whisky loving world. Founded in 1797 in the town of Oldmeldrum in Aberdeenshire, Glen Garioch is one of Scotland’s oldest operating distilleries. Long known for its robust Highland character, the distillery always maintained a muscular, cereal driven style that stands apart from many of its softer contemporaries. Today it remains a traditional plant with direct fired heritage and a reputation among insiders for producing spirit of remarkable texture and depth. That relative lack of mainstream recognition has translated into extraordinary opportunities at the higher end of the spectrum. It is remarkable that Thompson Bros has been able to secure such a high quality old Highlander at such a reasonable price. The obvious sleeper this year, but those who take the plunge will be greatly rewarded.

The Perfect Fifth acquired this exceptional 36-year-old Glenrothes with every intention of releasing it as one of the prestige bottlings in its range, but somehow the whisky never actually made it to market. Had it been released as planned, a single cask Glenrothes of this age would reasonably have carried a retail price around $2,000. Instead, years later, we've managed to get our hands on this tiny parcel under circumstances that make the original economics almost irrelevant. Cask #2128 was filled on March 4, 1986 and matured for more than 36 years in ex-bourbon oak before being bottled on December 15, 2022. After more than three and a half decades in cask, it had naturally fallen to just 43.3% ABV, yet remained above the legal minimum and was bottled exactly there at full cask strength. Glenrothes of this age is already exceptionally rare, but the ex-bourbon maturation makes this particularly fascinating. So much of the distillery's reputation has been built around sherry-matured whisky that an ancient bourbon-cask Glenrothes offers an entirely different window into the character of the spirit itself. A 1986 vintage, 36 years in a single cask, natural cask strength, and a release that essentially disappeared before it ever happened. This is precisely the sort of old Scotch we thought the modern market had made impossible to sell at prices like this.

American Single Malt has been an "up and coming" category since I started in this business nearly 20 years ago. Part of the problem with the category is that it's extremely difficult to create value for lovers of Single Malt when Scotland is able to deliver such incredible price to quality ratio. So we have some people who do it different, just to be different, but it's not enough just to be different, you need to be different and delicious. That's why so many craft distillers have struggled, the ultimate experience does not deliver for many customers in the way that they expect for the prices that they pay. Another huge issue is the lack of aspirational products in the category. Until Milestone, there was no truly singular yearly release that demanded the attention of ALL Malt Whisky drinkers. But with the last two releases of Milestone, we finally have a product that delivers on both counts. Almost NOTHING out there tastes as delicious as Milestone does at ANY price point. And this whisky sells out ridiculously quickly and many many people reach out asking for me to magically create more. That's not possible of course, so we wait for next year. This is your only chance to snag your bottles as they will only sell us what we are allocated and won't likely get a second drop. So if you've known the previous Milestones, this is your chance to lock in another one of the great American Whiskies for one more year.

This special Compass Box tasting pack brings together two of the house’s most celebrated expressions, offering a brilliant masterclass in the art of wood management, at an unbelievable price. While both whiskies showcase the blending house's signature richness and complexity, they approach flavor from entirely different geographic traditions, creating a beautiful study in contrasts.Together, this duo offers a phenomenal look at how the same high-quality malt distillate can be steered in wildly divergent directions by the hand of a master blender. Whether you are looking to explore the fiery depth of high-toast oak or the plush sweetness of European wine casks, this combo pack covers all the bases at a price lower than each individual bottle. And with the discontinuation of The Spice Tree expression, this may be your last chance to grab this classic at an unbeatable price.

This gorgeous barrel of Braeval probably won’t strike a chord with the distillery’s devoted fans because, well, there really aren’t many Braeval fans. That’s not to say we haven’t sold plenty of excellent examples over the years, but the complete absence of official distillery bottlings and lingering confusion around the name, originally Braes of Glenlivet, have kept this excellent little malt off almost everyone’s radar. It doesn’t help that much of the spirit is destined for blending and often filled into less-than-inspiring cask stock, which may explain why only the oldest Braevals have historically achieved true greatness. But take this lovely Highland malt and place it in a fresh Oloroso hogshead, and you have a recipe for something wonderful. Here we go. The beautiful color tells us we’re firmly in sherry-bomb territory, a healthy auburn (1.4). The nose is explosive, with baking spices, roasted almonds, tinned stone fruit, and complex aromas of dark-roasted coffee. The palate is dense and chewy, offering surprising depth of roasted malt and zesty orange oil alongside rich, sweet dried fruit. It’s a classical, if not entirely unexpected, style. We might have assumed that enthusiasm for dense, dark, sherried malt would have faded decades after aficionados first embraced it, but drinkers both new and old still adore this profile. It may never have gone out of fashion, but it has certainly become far more expensive. For sherry lovers, this is the deal of the year. Hands down.

If you weren’t aware, I’m a total sucker for Caol Ila. It’s a very large distillery, but only a fraction of its output reaches the market as single malt. I’ve even heard rumors that significant quantities of unpeated malt are produced for blending needs. One thing I love about Caol Ila, much like some of its Islay neighbors, is how remarkably multifaceted it can be. It’s difficult to determine whether these stylistic ranges are intentional, as with Bruichladdich, or seasonal, as with Laphroaig, but this year we have three barrels of different styles and ages, each from classic refill hogsheads. The idea was to capture three faces of Caol Ila and present them at stupendous prices. This first cask is the youngest of the three, but also the most vibrant. The color is a juicy pale gold (0.3). The nose is shiveringly good, offering zesty citrus and salt, briny oiliness, salted capers, tense sea spray, and fresh green peat. With air, it moves further into a pure, taut vibrancy. The palate is intense, with a strong citrus character of lime and salt, followed by more brine and a long, peaty finish. An absolute laser beam for serious lovers of the high-intensity style but it also has plenty of sweet barrel and a deep rich texture to keep it balanced. Signatory is not officially offering top tier malt year after year at prices that outperform the market by larger margins.

Craigellachie remains one of the most interesting and complex distillers in the Highlands. One of just 20 or so distillers still using worm tubs, its characterful spirit has many sides to it. This is the home of the heart of the John Dewar’s brand and one of the most interesting plants in all of Speyside. What makes it unique are the fat, onion-shaped stills, the surprisingly steep lyne arm and the steel worm tubs. The resulting spirit tends to be oily and rich and can offer character ranging from industrial engine oil to the ultra-fruity. With that, we often see heavier wood or oak treatments, but it’s refreshing to see the spirit on full display here, with a feeling of great maturity alongside that freshness. Let’s try it! The color is pale gold (0.3). The nose is full of stone fruit and crushed rocks, white cherries, manzano bananas, crisp, fresh malt and baking spice. The beautiful fullness of flavor continues on the palate, but doesn’t wade into the aggressively greasy or weird, with a fruity front palate retaining the nearly tropical fruit and the big, juicy core building through the center. Adding water here is really interesting and adds weight and complexity, but only a couple of drops are needed. Now some of the oilier notes come forward, but the apricot-y tone takes over from the tropical banana stuff. It’s simply a lovely, spirit-driven whisky without obstruction. Considering where many other bottlers put their older Craigellachie, it’s quite a good value as well. A perfect one for someone really into exploring this special spirit, but pretty enough to attract any malt lover’s attention.

I am completely in love with Longmorn, but the distillery has been sadly absent from our shelves for many years. We used to do exceptionally well with the well-priced 16-year, which was creamy, delicious, and easy to recommend. Eventually, though, the price went wild, and then the whisky was discontinued altogether. When the owners relaunched the brand, they got so much right: a limited-release 18-year-old, non-chill filtered, cask strength, small batch whisky from one of Speyside’s great underappreciated distilleries. There was only one problem: the price was absolutely insane. Nearly $300! Now, at more than half off, we are getting serious about this one. Apparently, this is the last discount they will be offering on the product, but who cares? If the price keeps going down, we will keep reloading. Let’s have a go. The color is burnished gold (1.1). The nose is absolutely classic Longmorn: rich roasted vanilla, a huge pan of roasted fruits, persimmon, pear, and pineapple, and dense, zingy barrel spice with galangal, cinnamon, more vanilla, and clove. With water, it opens toward Seville orange peel and fresh-baked biscuits, though the core remains firmly centered on roasted fruits and earthy spice. The texture is full-bodied and almost thick, with wildflower honey, wax fruit, roasted malt, dark chocolate, and buttercream. It absolutely loves a splash of water, softening and broadening in a wonderful way without losing its depth. This is still a special luxury whisky, but at this price it feels extremely fair rather than sort of silly and over the top. If you love Longmorn or Speyside whisky in general, this is an easy choice.

Fragrant and herbal aromas, with pine needles, basil, green bell pepper, pea pod, black truffle, peppercorn, and smoke from smoldering dry mosses and wood shavings. It’s very smooth and refreshing, with pear, peppermint, lemon, lime, green tea, kiwi, and herbal notes, finishing with chopped mint, more herbal layers, and gentle peppery spice. A unique composition and a quintessential Japanese whisky experience. (JM, Summer-2023)

The first thing you notice is the elegant fragrance of lychee, spring blossoms, lily, rosewater, and raspberry meringue. Deeper in, grassy notes with star fruit, kumquat, and kaffir lime leaves. The flavors offer perfection in their simplicity: silky honey, soft spices, crystalized pineapple, barley sugar, lemon, and orange. On the finish, the spices chatter on and on as the sweet citrus and honey fade in and out. One to cherish. (JM, Spring 2018)

A soft and delicate nose offers vanilla ice cream, ripe banana, peach, and honey-sweetened breakfast cereal. The palate is gentle and smooth, but packed with flavors—more vanilla, peach, coconut flakes, lemon meringue, cherry tart, and blackberry jam—all balanced by peppery spice and fragrant oak. A long, nicely spiced finish offers balanced fruitiness, Creamsicle, and dark chocolate. Complex, balanced, deep, and well-spiced; an easy sipper. (DF, Fall-2024)

Founded by John Glaser in 2000, Compass Box helped make blending one of the most exciting parts of Scotch whisky again. The company built its reputation on creative cask selection, unusual recipes, and a willingness to disclose exactly what goes into the bottle. Secrets of Smoke is a perfect example. Lead whiskymaker James Saxon set out to explore the natural sweetness beneath peated malt, using wine and sherry casks to reveal another side of the smoke. The blend brings together Caol Ila in first-fill Palo Cortado sherry-seasoned butts (33.1%), The Peat Monster in second-fill Spanish red wine casks (33.9%), and Ardmore in first-fill sherry hogsheads (22%). Smaller parcels of Laphroaig finished in Marsala barriques (5.7%) and Bowmore from refill bourbon barrels (2.5%) complete the recipe alongside a small blended malt component. Bottled in September 2024 at 52% ABV, with natural color and no chill filtration, only 9,792 bottles were produced worldwide. The original suggested retail price was $140. At just $60, ours is over 50% off the original price and the best price anywehre around. An extraordinary price for one of Compass Box’s most intriguing limited releases.

A port cask finish gives this Scotch a copper penny hue. The aroma suggests baked apple, while the palate has a chewy, concentrated vanilla-oak profile, leading to walnut, leather and espresso. The rounded finish sings with sherry and spice. Adding water coaxes out baked apple sweetness and dials back the oak. (KN)

Founded in 1815 by Donald and Alexander Johnston on Islay’s rugged south coast, Laphroaig has long been one of Scotland’s most distinctive distilleries, famed for its medicinal peat smoke, iodine richness, and unmistakable maritime intensity. There was a period not long ago when independent bottlers across Scotland were sounding the alarm about the availability of Laphroaig. Widespread consensus held that named Laphroaig would no longer trade on the open market as it once had, and for a time many teaspooned or unnamed Islay malts took the place of clearly identified stock. The result was significantly higher prices for casks bearing the Laphroaig name due to their perceived scarcity, and the few we encountered were often too expensive to consider. Fast forward three years and the market remains largely devoid of named Laphroaig, save for a few scattered casks, usually with the requisite markup. So when our friends at Dornoch indicated they had access to well priced, decade old Laphroaig, we knew we had to act quickly. This young and punchy Laphroaig features the famed Bessie Williamson and a peat fork on the label, an ode to the old ways. The whisky in this barrel was distilled on June 6, 2016 and bottled in March 2026. Matured in refill bourbon barrels, it drinks like a single barrel version of the classic 10 year cask strength at a healthy discount. A classical style with plenty of iodine and smoke, balanced by a creamy purity that is undeniable.

I've always been a bit of a Scapa fan boy. I used to think it was cool to drink the "other Orkney" distillery. But then it just kind of disappeared and the owners seemed to basically forget how special it was. Now they're back and absolutely killing it. It's COOL to drink Scapa again. So many unique stuff about this distillery from the super long ferments to the absolutely weirdo Lomond pot still, creates an absolutely stunning spirit particularly with significant age on it. Let's have a go. A dense looking burnished color (1.1). Those is bursting with rich tropical fruit -mango, passion fruit, kiwi- sweet toasted vanilla and ripe orchard fruit. With a bit of water an incredible opening occurs further deepening the dense fruit. The palate is surprisingly lifted and has a lovely bite to balance the sweet malt and fruit. This one needs time and air, maybe a tiny drop of water but not more. It's really incredible how delicious and opulent this feels and the price seems absolutely antique just like the whisky. It's also presented in a gorgeous box and is not chillfiltered which is a huge plus considering this isn't from an independent owner. I'm very into these whiskies.

The Glenturret Distillery is one of Scotland's hidden gems. Founded in 1763 as the "Thurot" distillery in a hollow outside Crieff, it was undoubtedly the site of illicit distillation at least 50 years prior. They claim to be Scotland's oldest licensed distiller, which several other distillers dispute, but its clear distillation occurred here very early. This picturesque part of Perthshire was once the baronial lands of Sir Patrick Murray of Ochtertyre, whose records establish the distillery's early naissance. The Murray family sold to the MacInnes in 1814 and the distillery was renamed The Hoth distillery. Finally in 1873, it was renamed the GlenTurret distillery and would eventually become an important part of the Famous Grouse blend. While it was an important and well-regarded distillery to many, it was an afterthought to the modern owners Edrington (owners of Macallan and Highland Park) who didn't bother to market the single malts much outside of the UK. In 2019, the Swiss luxury lifestyle company Lalique -famous of course for their crystal- purchased the small distillery and began a journey to reposition the high quality distillery on the international seen. Now, the first US release is available, the second under the new ownership. The triple wood is a blend of three cask types - American and European oak sherry as well as ex-bourbon barrels. Expect a soft subtle character pointed by exotic fruit and rich malt.

Opening aromas are of sea breeze, cigar smoke, oak and malted barley; air contact releases light caramel, fudge, cocoa bean, burnt candle wick and heather. Entry is the most complex of any whisky; midpalate soars on oak, spirit and grain tastes. The greatest distilled spirit of this generation. Buy whatever you can find. *Best Buy* (PP)

No other bottler is offering such a diverse selection of high quality casks at such compelling prices. The Thompson brothers entered the whisky business through pure passion, and that passion has opened doors within the complex and often opaque world of cask trading. As the exclusive US source for Thompson Bros whiskies, we are able to translate those relationships into remarkable opportunities for our customers. Hand selected by the team at Dornoch Distillery and approved by our own buying team, this exceptional cask underscores the uncompromising commitment to quality that has become synonymous with the Thompson Bros name. If you know anything about K&L, it is that we are enormous fans of independent bottlings from Bowmore Distillery. There is a tension and soul to the casks Bowmore releases to outside bottlers that is almost never exhibited in the official range. Perhaps the house style is sometimes shaped toward broad appeal, but no other Islay distillery offers such a wide spectrum of personality in its independent releases. Founded in 1779, Bowmore is a cornerstone of Islay’s whisky tradition. Situated on the shores of Loch Indaal, it maintains its own floor maltings and produces a spirit defined by a distinctive balance of coastal smoke and orchard fruit. This gorgeous, underpriced barrel was filled into refill bourbon on April 15, 2013 and bottled in March 2026. Casks like this serve as a timely reminder that greatness does not need to shout when it can smolder.

The Balvenie remains one of the very few Scotch distilleries still practicing traditional floor malting, and this limited 12-year-old release takes that increasingly rare craft to its logical extreme. While home-malted barley contributes to the wider Balvenie range, this bottling was produced entirely from barley malted by the distillery, sourced from the Mains of Balvenie and partner farms. The process is famously labor intensive, with the germinating barley turned by hand as many as four times a day, seven days a week. Malt Master Kelsey McKechnie matured the whisky in American oak before finishing it in a European oak ex-sherry butt from Jerez, bottling at a generous 47.5% ABV. The result is classic Balvenie with an unusually direct connection to the distillery's oldest traditions: honey, warm biscuit and creamy toffee lead into barley sugar, ginger, raisin and beautifully integrated sherry spice. Created as part of the 1931 Collection in collaboration with contemporary artist Daniel Arsham, it's an unusually compelling combination of serious old-school whisky production and modern presentation.

Classic ‘southern shores’ Islay from the onset: salty and medicinal on the nose, with smoked haddock, citrus fruits, and milk chocolate. The palate yields full-on hot peat, pipe tobacco, black coffee, licorice, and more chocolate. The finish is long and malty, with sweet smoke. Non-chill filtered. (GS, Fall 2018)

Silky and downright succulent, this Scotch is made with two types of oak casks—as the DoubleWood name suggests—but it’s really all about the influence of the ex-Sherry cask. Aromas suggest golden raisins and dried apricots. The silky palate starts out moderately smoky, but glides into a richer, honeyed, nutty profile that finishes with cocoa and clove accents. *Top 100 Spirits of 2015* (KN)

This outrageous young hyper-peated single cask from Glasgow 1770 is one of the most exciting barrels we've come across in a long time. Their tiny stills produce a tense, powerful, peated spirit with deep, oily texture, and a complex, smoky Highland character. Add the sweet, raisinated richness of PX sherry and you're in for a treat. This isn't the salty, iodine-laced smoke you might expect from Islay, but rather a more heather-driven, barbecue-like style of smoke that feels distinctly Highland in character. This awesome collaboration with the famous Delmonico Steakhouse is every bit as exciting as it sounds. It may be the first steak whisky I fully approve of. Needless to say, this one isn't about regionality, but originality. Let's have it. The color is a vivid auburn (1.4). The nose is clear, tight, and wound full of energy, offering huge notes of Carolina barbecue, roasted chicory, pecan pie, turbinado sugar, and roasted arabica. This is coupled with a sweet salinity that feels more vegetal than coastal. On the palate, it's oily and rich with roasted nuts pushing forward and a dark, pungent smoke running through the center. Sweet oak and vibrant, sticky wine round out the mid-palate. The finish is smoldering and sweet, full of old mesquite embers and dense, chewy dark fruit. With water, the tension is released, and a huge wave of fruit battles the roasty aromas on the nose. The palate remains a battleground of dense flavors but the tannins soften, and the grippy finish relaxes into something surprisingly approachable, all things considered. An absolutely stunning young whisky and a perfect first single cask collaboration from this fabulous little distillery and the famous steakhouse. If you want to taste before you buy, you can grab a glass at Delmonico's in Las Vegas, but it probably won't last long at either venue once they pop these bottles and start pouring. It's too good!

The Macallan's benchmark excellence is nowhere more evident than in the 18 year old, which is matured for a minimum of 18 years in seasoned sherry casks. Classic Macallan, with aromas and flavors of dried apricots and figs, spice, chocolate and orange zest. Made exclusively in hand-picked sherry oak casks from Jerez, Spain. As always, the Macallan is bottled with its natural color. This is the new package but the same old Mac 18!

This gorgeous barrel of Auchroisk is so classical and creamy it's a real drinker. I'm not sure what qualifies this to have been bottled for the inauguration of Ardnahoe, but if they were going for the most typical in style from this particular distillery, I'd believe it. Let's have a go. The color is white wine (0.1). The nose is big orchard fruit -tangy green apple, Bartlett pear, fresh malt, kiwi skins, graham cracker and creme anglais. On the palate it's equally juicy with big apple-y fruit and more pithy citrus. The creaminess of the nose is lost to some earthy malt character, but a dash of water bring is roaring back. It surely doesn't need the water and will drink nicely if you like the edge of full 100 proof. Perhaps not unusual or bold, but just damn good malty mid-aged Speysider for a wonderful price.

Mild honey and almond aromas beckon on the nose. The palate opens with sweet spices like cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla, leading into velvety caramel and a hint of dried fig. The fin- ish glimmers with cayenne, a burst of lemon peel acidity and a hint of peat smoke.

95 points Malt Advocate, "The flavors evolve on the nose and palate, with peat kiln smoke, fresh asphalt, damp earth warehouses, morning after campfire ash, and old boat dock contrasting nicely with toffee apple, crème caramel, delicate raspberry preserve and dried citrus. Long, smoky, spicy, briny, seaweed, dirty martini-tinged finish. This whisky comes from a combination of both sherry and bourbon oak-aged casks, and the marriage works. I also like that it retains some of its youthful brashness, while showing the depth that maturity affords a whisky. A delicious, well balanced, old-fashioned Laphroaig." John Hansell -Malt Advocate

Founded in 1815 on Islay’s south coast, Laphroaig has more than two centuries of distilling history. Its Càirdeas series takes its name from the Gaelic word for “friendship.” The 2025 edition presents Lore at cask strength, connecting this annual release series with one of the distillery’s established single malt expressions.

The #1 Whiskey of the Year on Whiskey Advocates Top 20 list in 2018 is now being offered without an allocation limit for the first time thanks to our special relationship with the importer. The wonderful Nikka From the Barrel has been one of the most sought-after offerings from this special distiller based outside of Sapporo. It's previously not been available in the US due to the USA restriction on the 500ml bottle size, but thankfully the owners designed a 750ml version for the US market. This is a blend of many of the Nikka whiskies we know and love dumped and mingled for further marrying in a large vat at the distillery, hence "from the barrel." It's one of the few higher proof offerings available from any Japanese distiller and has a unique character. While the Hibiki Harmony might be the most popular blended Japanese whisky available in the US, From The Barrel is easily the most flavorful. This is nicely aged Yoichi, Miyagikyo, Coffey Grain and Imported Malt further aged post blending and bottled at 102.8 proof. No wonder people are going rabid for the stuff, it's absolutely delicious!

Returning after a long absence, the new 10 year old has zested lemon, vanilla, lemongrass, and robust peatiness, with a touch of minerality shaping the crispness and purity of the aromas. It’s fruit-forward with banana and green apple among honey, vanilla, butteriness, and egg custard, with a long-lasting spiciness of pepper, clove, and a hint of brine. A growing oakiness with salted caramel, pepper, and fruit to finish. (AM, Fall 2023)

For many years, Hakushu 18 Year was my golden goose of Japanese whisky. Believe it or not, back when I started in this industry over 20 years ago, the Yamazaki 12 year was the least expensive 12-year-old single malt in my store. I think we charged $37 and Glenlivet 12 Year was $40. When I wanted to treat myself the 18 year was only $100! When the Hak 18 Year launched in 2006, it was literally all I wanted, and it was damn hard to find. Difficult to sell yourself the one bottle allocated to your store, so I eventually paid retail elsewhere and coveted that bottle like it was my baby. Then, it became impossible to find and extremely expensive, yet my desire to have it in my possession diminished very little. Now, tasting the modern version, I actually think it's improved amazingly over the years; my desire to own the Hak 18 Year never really connected with my perception of its quality. Let's have a little bit together! The color is a beautiful, burnished color (1.1) Huh, this is much darker than I remember the old version being. HOLY MOLY, the nose is absolutely stunning, full of beautiful, tropical fruit, wild honey, antique wood, and the finest black teas. The smoke is so well-integrated and rich you'd be hard pressed to call it out as a peated malt on the nose. The ultra supple entry builds with deep, roasted fruit, deep vanilla, rancio, and baking spice that build toward a round, complete, and savory finish. Again, we're not at all in the overt peat world, and the depth and age feel well beyond 18 years. For all that is said about Suntory's consistency, this is wildly inconsistent with what I remember in that it's much, much better! A poor, little 92 point score from 13 years ago does not do the modern Hakushu 18 year any justice. It's very clear that they're putting beautiful old malt in this from a variety of extremely high- quality barrels. A beautiful whisky that should be considered for anyone looking for a luxurious experience.

After regular maturation, this Scotch is "extra matured" in former rum casks. The end result layers rich, mouth-coating dried apricot, honey and Sherry notes on top of Balvenie's usual caramel and light peat profile. It finishes flavorful, though with a distinct burst of alcohol warmth. (KN)

Highland Park’s Between You & I by Laila Gohar takes a wonderfully personal approach to whisky making. This limited 17-year-old single malt brings together Master Whisky Maker Marc Watson and Egyptian-raised, New York-based artist Laila Gohar, whose extraordinary edible installations transform familiar ingredients into surreal works of art. For this collaboration, Watson sampled more than 80 casks before selecting a combination intended to evoke Gohar’s Egyptian heritage. New American oak casks lead the composition, offering an intriguing direction for this beloved Orkney distillery. Bottled at 47.5% ABV, the whisky explores the connection between flavor and memory, with Gohar’s first taste transporting her back to Cairo. Her personal associations also inspired the illustrations accompanying the release, extending the collaboration from the glass to the artwork. It’s a fascinating creative brief for a whisky maker, and one that gives Highland Park enthusiasts something substantial to explore: seventeen years of maturation, an unusual emphasis on new American oak, and a cask selection built around one person’s memories. An invitation to pour a glass, take your time and discover where your own palate leads.

Founded near Elgin in 1821, Linkwood is a long-established Speyside distillery. This Old Malt Cask release was distilled in 2002 and matured for 22 years in a single sherry butt, presenting an individually matured expression of Linkwood single malt Scotch whisky in a 700ml bottle.

Hugely floral and perfumed on the nose, with rose petals, violet candies, and dried orange peel. This is the Gewürztraminer of American single malts—sweet lychee, laced with sachet aromas that explode as if opening Grandma’s dresser drawer. The palate is more tropical; dried pineapple, canned peach syrup, and spice. This could be polarizing, but it’s utterly captivating and worth a try. (JL, Fall 2017)

The famous Solist series has become incredibly hard to find in the US over the last few years. This cask strength single barrel is dark and brooding with a massive cask strength. *****DUE TO TRADEMARK ISSUES KAVALAN SINGLE BARRELS DO NOT INCLUDE THE SOLIST NAME IN THE US, BUT THE QUALITY OF THE PRODUCT IS IDENTICAL TO THOSE UNDER THE SOLIST LABEL****

UPDATE: The final blend is here and it's even more incredible than the test recipe - everything is married perfectly and it tastes exactly like we wanted it. A testament to the prowess of the excellent blender, Mr James Saxon, who incidentally is stepping down from his throne as lead blender at Compass Box. This will be one of his final projects. A fitting tribute to an undeniable talent. The privilege of selecting a custom batch of Compass Box cannot be overstated. Only a handful of venues have ever been invited to participate in a collaboration with the great modern bespoke whisky maker. The blending and bottling of a K&L Exclusive Compass Box led by the illustrious John Glaser is one of our crowning achievements in terms of sheer quality. It took us almost 5 years from the moment we first approached the brand before they agreed to it. That whisky, 5th & Harrison, was a blend of old Caol Ila and sherried Glen Ord, an eternal coupling. Thanks to a killer price and a mysterious label - that was definitely NOT a drawing of any former K&L Spirits buyer - it sold out in just days for just $180. Now the few bottles that remain fetch over $1000 at auction. Since then, so much has changed. John Glaser has handed the reigns over to a new generation of whisky makers and a new era of collaboration has blossomed. K&L has a new location in Southern California, and so much more. Nearly 10 years to the day that we began the process of creating 5th & Harrison, we’re ready to release a second custom batch bottled exclusively for K&L Wine Merchants by Compass Box. Blending whisky is one of the most fulfilling and complex tasks I’ve had the incredible luck to perform. Blending whisky isn't a materialistic endeavor that can be solved by wit and measure. The simple truth of blending is that 1+2≠3 and creating a whisky of great distinction and character is not as simple as just mashing three really good malts together. So, guided, as it were, by the deft hand of Whisky Making Director and all-around splendid chap James Saxon, I embarked upon a sublime journey. We loved the original 5th & Harrison style and wanted to stay within that realm. James had an incredible array of wonderful old sherried and peated whiskies to choose from, but it was quickly narrowed down to a few lots. They had old Ardbeg, Highland Park, Caol Ila, Bowmore, and sherried Glendullan or Tormore. I wasn’t simply looking to recreate the prowess of the original in flavor terms. Instead, I felt we needed to focus on creating the same experience of unbridled value for your dollar. That immediately cut the potential of working with Ardbeg out of the question – despite the quality of the distillate, it’s not only difficult to integrate but also VERY expensive after 20 years of age. I’d assumed the same fate would hold true for the other Islay options, but after running the numbers, we found that we’d be able to use significant portions of Bowmore aged for almost 23 years in ex-bourbon. That product on its own would fetch many hundreds of dollars in today’s market. To it, we married a gorgeous first-fill sherry butt of Glendullan of at least 21 years of age. This little-known distillery can offer some distinct character and complexity when aged in quality casks. So little sees high-value sherry it’s hard to generalize about character, but this barrel was absolutely first-rate. It brought out the deep tropical fruit and wild exotic side of the Bowmore. This original blend was supple and delicious - a 5th & Harrison redux if you will, but it didn’t really show the maturity of these two wonderful old spirits. In fact, the whiskies seemed to bring out the hidden youthfulness in each other, a noble trait, though now somehow masking some deeper complexities that the two exhibited apart. At James' suggestion, we began to explore the potential of introducing a small amount of old rugged Caol Ila into the blend. This I also assumed would be cost prohibitive, but we forged ahead anyway. After nearly two and a half decades in refill American oak, the wild jagged spirit has smoldered into a dense singularity of salty ocean flavors. The feeling of boarding a weathered schooner, salt and tar covered, the captain’s pipe wafting as he steadies the wooden tiller. Whiffs of salted fish, sea spray, and diesel smoke complete the harbor scene. Eventually, this final note brought the new batch together perfectly by retaining the wild freshness but pinpointing both a base and top note that draws the deeper elements of the first two malts forward. The resulting blend is easily one of my favorite modern bottlings of scotch in at least a decade. It exemplifies everything we are at K&L, providing a superior experience for an incredible price. The component whiskies, had they been bottled on their own, would have individually fetched easily 2-3 times the price of this bottle, but put them together, a testament the incredible value we've created here. I’ll attempt to do it justice here. The color is a stunning hue of deep copper (1.0). The nose offers an incredible sense of the finest and oldest things -old teak, cordovan, salt-encrusted rope, mango syrup, balsam, seaweed, bonfire, première eau, and marmalade. On the palate, the Bowmore shines at first, offering salted tropical fruit, fried plantains in honey, grilled lemons. Then our Glendullan adds wild nutty oxidized rancio, dense spices, and freshly chopped dark chocolate. The finish brings a heavy dose of lemon oil, old wood, baked orchard fruit, apricot jam, salted almonds, camphor, and smoldering tobacco. It doesn’t need a drop of water and certainly not more than that if you must. Bottled at very near cask strength - 0.1-.2% to round out the labels - and with no chill filtration, coloring, or other additives whatsoever. Today, to commemorate the expansion of K&L into new waters, we launch both 5th & Harrison II & Culver & Sepulveda. These two sister bottlings include the exact same juice, but each label celebrates these two wonderful cities that we call home. In some comedic twist of fate, we’re able to offer these wonders – an old blended malt scotch whisky at the exact same price as the previous K&L/Compass Box collaboration from over a decade ago, a true triumph.

One of the most exciting whisky releases of the last year, Kanosuke finally comes to an approachable price point, and I could not be happier. The quality on display here is unrivaled in Japanese whisky at this cost. It even gives single malt Scotch a run for its money. The nose starts strong with big oak and vanilla, but there's more nuance than apparent at first whiff. White flowers, tropical fruit, candied citrus and confectioners sugar lie just beneath the heavy base notes. The palate is soft but structured, offering far more complexity than you could expect from relatively young whisky. Peaches drizzled with condensed milk, sweet grain, toasted oak and a kick of spice make the first impression. But a thread of saline and earthy umami from the coastal aging and the recharred shochu casks counter the sweeter flavors and round out the whole package. What keeps me coming back though is the elegance and purity of it. This will strike some fans of Japanese whisky as odd or strong, but I believe it hits all the hallmarks that separate Japanese malt from Scottish. It's perfectly composed without a single note out of place. I dare say it will convert some Scotch drinkers who thought Japanese whisky too light or too expensive, because at the end of the day, it's just exceptional whisky.

A rare single cask of Highland Park over 30 years of age. Mr. Murray rates this at the top of the pile at 96.5 points. He says, "Nose: Pretty near perfect HP for its age, and one of the best examples of the distillery of that era I have nosed for a very long time. Slightly above average peat for a HP, which works perfectly in its favour. The usual heather honey has been skewed slightly by the heady mix of tannins and peat. The saltiness is profound, the oak a rich, spicy backbone. The sweetness is subtle and still honeyed, but more now a blend of Manuka and orange blossom. Truly magnificent! Taste: Scotland's silkiest malt at its most silky. The bold smoke on arrival is caught in the velvet gloves of the lightly oiled barley sugar, a dark liquorice sweetness spreading as the oak makes its mark. The spices are prim, proper and just so, never moving out of their set orbit while the honey starts to make its long-awaited mark, bringing with it the light smoke; a quick surge of exotic fruit underlines the antiquity with aplomb. Finish: Long, increasingly smoky with the spices still teasing and forging a beautiful duet with the molassed sugars... Balance: This is a malt whisky coming to the end of its life, like a star becomes a white dwarf In density is huge and I mean gigantic. The oaks are about to explode, but the cask has been bottled in the nick of time where the balance is still near perfect. Fine margins for a very fine whisky." *Liquid Gold Award Winner*

Earthy notes of dried leaves, wet wool, and a hint of maltiness start things off on the nose, then citrus and red apple. The palate is sweet and balanced, offering warm apple tart, cinnamon, cooked blueberries, raisins, toffee, and Christmas cake, with a slight and appealing hint of soapiness. A lengthy finish brings chocolate cake, glazed orange, pfeffernusse cookies, and winter spice. A delicious holiday warmer. (DF, Winter-2021)

Kuju's inaugural single malt represents the realization of founder Shoji Utoda's ambition to make whisky in his native Oita Prefecture. A longtime whisky retailer who trained at Chichibu, Utoda helped finance the project through corporate bonds purchased by bartenders, liquor retailers, and other investors. When pandemic restrictions prevented Scottish engineers from installing the Forsyths equipment, local shochu equipment specialist Hirano Shoten completed the work using the manufacturer's plans and remote guidance. Distillation began in February 2021. The First is made entirely from unpeated malted barley and local underground spring water, with fermentation conducted over four days in Douglas fir washbacks to encourage lactic acid fermentation. Double distillation takes place in Forsyths copper pot stills fitted with straight heads and gently descending lyne arms, a configuration selected to produce Kuju's bold style of spirit. Matured for a minimum of three years in a combination of ex-bourbon and sherry casks, this limited release introduces the distillery's own single malt at its full cask strength of 58% ABV. All production, from milling through bottling, takes place at Kuju. Released without an age statement, The First is non-chill filtered and bottled without added coloring.

The newly redesigned Glendronach 15 year marks the beginning of a new era at the Glendronach distillery. No longer is the 15 year a triumphant revival of a lost label, but now it's the core malt in one of Scotland's most well regarded distillers. It remains exclusively filled into Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso sherry casks from Andalucía in Glendronach's old dark dunnage warehouses located outside of the small eastern highland town of Huntley. Tasting notes from teh distiller, "Color: Antique copper with a golden hue. Aroma: An intoxicating burst of maraschino cherry, ripe bramble and dark chocolate mint with hints of orange bitters and walnut liqueur. Palate: Honey-glazed apricot and ripe fig with a crescendo of black cherry, angelica, and muscovado."