2003 Andeluna "Reserve" Malbec Mendoza

Winemaker Silvio Alberto, working with consultant Michel Rolland, is clearly a proponent of the bigger-is-better school, and he deserves credit for making big wines that are balanced despite being brawny. This high-end Malbec, which is very reasonably priced, blasts with menthol, prune, chocolate and cassis. It's modern and chewy, but has enough tannin, acid and grit to keep it in fine form. *Editors' Choice* (MS)