2023 Domaine Thierry & Pascale Matrot Meursault

Notes

Walk into the center of Meursault and you're a few steps from the Matrot cellars, where this family has been bottling its own wine since Joseph Matrot settled here after the First World War, six generations and counting. Sisters Elsa and Adèle Matrot took the reins from their father Thierry with the 2016 vintage, having worked alongside him since 2008 and 2010. Gaël Fouré, who has run the cellar for nearly three decades, is still there to keep the thread unbroken through the hand-off. The sisters kept the family rules intact: 24 hectares farmed organically since 2000, no new oak on the village and premier cru whites, only once-used to five-year-old barrels, a slow fermentation that can run ten weeks, a year on the lees with a little bâtonnage, and bottling just before the next harvest comes in. What they've added is a sharper edge of freshness and precision, though the Meursault weight is all still there when you want it. The holdings are the quiet envy of the village, with a hectare of Charmes, a sliver of Perrières, Blagny up on the hill, and parcels in Puligny's Combettes and Chalumeaux, plus a village Meursault stitched together from a dozen separate plots. For my money, this is one of the most dependable addresses in white Burgundy, with still reasonably priced Meursault, and the sisters are only getting started!